tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12777360704646517482024-03-20T18:12:06.849-07:00Pilgrim Patch-Ian Holdsworth and his friendsUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger33125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-8583949203632861702011-11-22T02:15:00.000-08:002011-11-23T06:56:15.753-08:00Winter news from Peterbros.<style>
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<div style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-element: para-border-div; padding: 1.0pt 4.0pt 1.0pt 4.0pt;"><div class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-outline-level: 1; mso-padding-alt: 1.0pt 4.0pt 1.0pt 4.0pt; padding: 0cm;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 20pt;">PEREGRINATIONS</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-outline-level: 1; mso-padding-alt: 1.0pt 4.0pt 1.0pt 4.0pt; padding: 0cm;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: navy; font-size: 8pt;">WINTER EDITION 2011</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHxKLzTOjrUxeQXFUsuddFnBAj6PTYqA473IRjthVl_WMvVIHBJ8C4pZldl_SefeDXyihTk1DzHsC-71z6qoECgWJNxhF8ZCJrFCI0YaJ0QIyhartm_kvuEsOZTvZzlhGE6KWWcyalfdYx/s1600/picture+1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHxKLzTOjrUxeQXFUsuddFnBAj6PTYqA473IRjthVl_WMvVIHBJ8C4pZldl_SefeDXyihTk1DzHsC-71z6qoECgWJNxhF8ZCJrFCI0YaJ0QIyhartm_kvuEsOZTvZzlhGE6KWWcyalfdYx/s320/picture+1.png" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 1.0pt 4.0pt 1.0pt 4.0pt; padding: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 1.0pt 4.0pt 1.0pt 4.0pt; padding: 0cm;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 1.0pt 4.0pt 1.0pt 4.0pt; padding: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 1.0pt 4.0pt 1.0pt 4.0pt; padding: 0cm;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: navy;">If you have anything I can add to the next issue contact:</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-outline-level: 1; mso-padding-alt: 1.0pt 4.0pt 1.0pt 4.0pt; padding: 0cm;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: navy;">Del Lindon</span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> <a href="mailto:adele.lindon@yahoo.co.uk">adele.lindon@yahoo.co.uk</a></b></div></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: navy;">Web sites:</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: navy;">Face Book Site : Peterborough Pilgrims.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: navy;">www.pilgrims-to-santiago.com</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-outline-level: 1;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>PILGRIMAGES PLANNED FOR 2012</u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">May & October 2012 : Porto (Portugal) to Santiago (Spain) 150 miles starting in Portugal and walking along the Atlantic coast then inland to Spain to Santiago. Why not come along.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">July 2012. The Youth Pilgrimage. Two pilgrimages offered for 16 to 19 yrs and also 19 yrs and over these will be led by Joe Cameron the Youth coordinator. To be confirmed</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>SPANISH LESSONS.</u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Mercedes Finning has offered to give Spanish Lessons again Times and venue to be decided. Contact Mercedes on </div><div class="MsoNormal">for further details.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Mercedes.finning001:btinternet.com</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">It is with regret to inform you that Cheryl Goddard is stepping down as Treasurer. We would like to take this opportunity of thanking Cheryl for all she has done. If anyone feels they are able to take on this position contact Ian.</div><div class="MsoNormal">01604 761104.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">John Knight's new book “Who holds the reins” this is now available from John contact 01280 706258</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="border: medium none; padding: 0cm;">PILGRIM GATHERING AT ST MARY’S ON THE 28<sup>TH</sup> JANUARY 2012.AT 12.00 pm.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 1.0pt 4.0pt 1.0pt 4.0pt; padding: 0cm;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 1.0pt 4.0pt 1.0pt 4.0pt; padding: 0cm;">Eucharist Service followed by shared meal and also </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 1.0pt 4.0pt 1.0pt 4.0pt; padding: 0cm;">TALK TO BE GIVEN BY BISHOP LYNSEY URWIN of Walsingham.</div></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">The film “The Way” is now available on Amazon cost £8.99</div><div class="MsoNormal"> <style>
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</style> </div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-dHUG0Faf-bXD3DPcNQkTjqmfXdaLZr29XZIo_8XUCikaraiY6Nl1NTT6pW_cIewqSTwAZ8Sk1vLLf7xUc0VHPOdJk3xSuOBEqJdBY1CHtdBHpbDs7Jtej5_7BejS6p8N9EKe-GmnpxDQ/s1600/story-large-3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-dHUG0Faf-bXD3DPcNQkTjqmfXdaLZr29XZIo_8XUCikaraiY6Nl1NTT6pW_cIewqSTwAZ8Sk1vLLf7xUc0VHPOdJk3xSuOBEqJdBY1CHtdBHpbDs7Jtej5_7BejS6p8N9EKe-GmnpxDQ/s320/story-large-3.png" width="320" /></a></div>"The Way" is a powerful and inspirational story about family, friends, and the challenges we face while navigating this ever-changing and complicated world. Martin Sheen plays Tom, an American doctor who comes to St. Jean Pied de Port, France to collect the remains of his adult son (played by Emilio Estevez), killed in the Pyrenees in a storm while walking the Camino de Santiago, also known as The Way of Saint James. Rather than return home, Tom decides to embark on the historical pilgrimage to honor his son's desire to finish the journey. What Tom doesn't plan on is the profound impact the journey will have on him and his "California Bubble Life.</div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Trailer on Youtube</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=1ZmvFdFO_58#%21">http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=1ZmvFdFO_58#!</a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAS7PiVBBqdkwSk8slnGeDpbKC0ETJrqAam8AAGp2qQ6qqfWiNThixnfh1KHpWIsQee9h-vxetGp9qQrVo-VZSLFQPVnGQeZkxKZaGOvrhUm3-Yu6o7zqK2m7kwpP11maoc9o2zosdd7HS/s1600/Staires.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAS7PiVBBqdkwSk8slnGeDpbKC0ETJrqAam8AAGp2qQ6qqfWiNThixnfh1KHpWIsQee9h-vxetGp9qQrVo-VZSLFQPVnGQeZkxKZaGOvrhUm3-Yu6o7zqK2m7kwpP11maoc9o2zosdd7HS/s320/Staires.png" width="320" /></a></div><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-outline-level: 1;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>Walking the Camino</u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-outline-level: 1;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>Ian Stairs (Pilgrim September 2011)</u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Starting from Father Ian’s we left for the airport at 4.30am. We landed in Spain at 11.30am after a bus ride and a short walk we got to our first Albergue.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Sunday our first all day walk. It is very warm but good walking conditions underfoot. My concern is getting through the third day, Monday and Tuesday are very hard days, glad to get finished for the day. After a shower and some time to reflect we find a place to eat and then rest up. The days are going so fast, the walking is hard but the sights are so wonderful. We are now a few hours from Santiago, we will be there in the morning. With the pilgrimage almost over and Santiago so close its nice to reflect back over the last few days. Sharing a common table together was so good and meeting other pilgrims was very interesting. One day as we climbed a steep slope through a village, feeling the weight of my back-pack I thought of Jesus with the heavy cross on his shoulders, stumbling over the stony path. Reaching the end of the days walk one day to be told there was no beds (no room at the inn) on a lighter note one can only marvel at the wonder of God’s creation and the kindness of local people.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">This morning we begin to walk our last few miles getting quite excited as we get closer. We are now in Santiago. I feel so good to have made it all the way but sad that the pilgrimage is almost over. We have been to mass and took communion with hundreds of other pilgrims.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I would like to say a big thank you to my wife Julie and Joseph for their company over the last two weeks, and also to Father Ian for all his help and advice throughout the pilgrimage. Thank you also to Johnny Walker for his kindness and hospitality.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">CHRISTMAS TREE FESTIVAL AT ST. ANDREW’S CHURCH, GREAT BILLING.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Why not come and see the trees including one reflecting pilgrimage.</div><div class="MsoNormal">1<sup>st</sup> to 4<sup>th</sup> December 2011-10-31 11 am-8pm Thurs 1<sup>st</sup> and 2<sup>nd</sup> Dec. 11am – 7pm Sat 3<sup>rd</sup> Dec and Sun 4<sup>th</sup> 12 – 4 pm </div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ5vXqwtL6v1RhKmXyz_cbzP92PiA857E6ZRHh50QNetRS8xklMGfqWS-hJ7laKSUozJ8C5CJx2B0pHfEDnX0cd7mS0n9JglswkHy-dI0AKkGSU6g5un3tuPomDiUMPC8O5tnrROWe94kE/s1600/Billing.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ5vXqwtL6v1RhKmXyz_cbzP92PiA857E6ZRHh50QNetRS8xklMGfqWS-hJ7laKSUozJ8C5CJx2B0pHfEDnX0cd7mS0n9JglswkHy-dI0AKkGSU6g5un3tuPomDiUMPC8O5tnrROWe94kE/s320/Billing.png" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>Camino de Santiago. The Way of St. James.</u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-outline-level: 1;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>Roger Lazenby 24<sup>th</sup> August 2011</u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="text-decoration: none;"></span></u></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="text-decoration: none;"> </span></u></b> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal">The Meseta is 113 miles of flat agricultural wilderness. From horizon to horizon the only sight is of golden wheat stubble, no bird song, little or no shade from the heat of the sun.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrVlhsSEPdkZvmgTILEu4Acc5NOJSOEPYXlccuGeExN9Wdp7Vs20UOadJWnSG7Rb5eDc1F4nx9xu2lnx7I-TCi9T4ojESorlB3YDThllRVjom75-Bg9Je8BhBcZjXwRJ7lAfWC-g6Ocp1G/s1600/Roger+1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrVlhsSEPdkZvmgTILEu4Acc5NOJSOEPYXlccuGeExN9Wdp7Vs20UOadJWnSG7Rb5eDc1F4nx9xu2lnx7I-TCi9T4ojESorlB3YDThllRVjom75-Bg9Je8BhBcZjXwRJ7lAfWC-g6Ocp1G/s320/Roger+1.png" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">I had chosen the Meseta as part of my 180 mile solo pilgrimage, knowing there would be no distractions from recharging my spiritual batteries. For the first few days of a pilgrimage your head is full of every day thoughts, travel, where shall I eat, sleep.</div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpMtkIMY_Cw8gYfywLz_eJM18UZP3SlBFSS2LE0aEfuVqO4Yj6MIO5rrfXUsrRep2YsePZOqSC0CoAecaJ_Vf3ujrEWMUoQCYkFMRXL0Q-gRYjzoB5vhRY5C62YNSusGlsST8lTjnZdfJC/s1600/Roger+2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpMtkIMY_Cw8gYfywLz_eJM18UZP3SlBFSS2LE0aEfuVqO4Yj6MIO5rrfXUsrRep2YsePZOqSC0CoAecaJ_Vf3ujrEWMUoQCYkFMRXL0Q-gRYjzoB5vhRY5C62YNSusGlsST8lTjnZdfJC/s320/Roger+2.png" width="320" /></a></div> Those thoughts soon pass and as the way gets harder going and I wonder why I wanted to be on a pilgrimage at all. The days are like being in solitary confinement, the only sound is of my own footsteps and the occasional good wishes from passing cyclists. I have time to think of the things I should have done and the things I should not have done, and as for forgiveness. As the pilgrimage gets harder it is certainly penance for those sins. By midday on the 9<sup>th</sup> day of walking I am totally exhausted all my energy spent, I need help to finish.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFWnhQNE2-rudL_QqYaU9JVCeSttmjfktW7f-2YNC-AurjJvCxs9Q8KswUbjFMfUJLB_wFES2X11b2k2qpR6vCdHflpY3DoPCZlC51n9VHvROBA4vFOAnDOVovCGVWE8QHvFX3Dowd4I-8/s1600/Roger3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFWnhQNE2-rudL_QqYaU9JVCeSttmjfktW7f-2YNC-AurjJvCxs9Q8KswUbjFMfUJLB_wFES2X11b2k2qpR6vCdHflpY3DoPCZlC51n9VHvROBA4vFOAnDOVovCGVWE8QHvFX3Dowd4I-8/s320/Roger3.png" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I asked the Lord if he could give me a helping hand, within moments a cloud has covered the sun and the temperature drops, a slight wind pushes me from behind, it is then I realize that I’m not walking alone.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil9eigXVlaYik2JQZHgFEXIl63cMAYiqfH6ho-CzMI7c0GLBOP3hQm4tKNj11B2C5ZZr7sLEZc-KifA_rdub7tU7BI6T1E65tkrc8NuCsxTm-8sZch3egFWcW5PiI3XxSmYRu10Va6c1us/s1600/JohnnieWalker460.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil9eigXVlaYik2JQZHgFEXIl63cMAYiqfH6ho-CzMI7c0GLBOP3hQm4tKNj11B2C5ZZr7sLEZc-KifA_rdub7tU7BI6T1E65tkrc8NuCsxTm-8sZch3egFWcW5PiI3XxSmYRu10Va6c1us/s320/JohnnieWalker460.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"></div></div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="section"><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 18pt; font-weight: 700;">From John Walkers Blogspot. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 18pt; font-weight: 700;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: 700;">See </span><span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">www.johnniewalker.com/ </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: small; font-weight: 700;">Monday, 31 October 2011 </span><br />
<span style="color: blue; font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: 700;">News , numbers and gossip from Santiago </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Hola </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">I reported recently that pilgrim numbers this year had broken records yet again. As October draws to a close that trend continues although the number of arrivals is much reduced. By the end of this month another 16,000 pilgrims arrived. This makes the total for 2011 so far </span><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt; font-weight: 700;">177,939. </span><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">For a full analysis see the bottom of this post. It isn't surprising then that Santiago is celebrating these increased numbers and preparing for the future. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt; font-weight: 700;">Exhibition: 20 years on the Way </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Xacabeo is the government funded Galician organisation responsible for developing and promoting the Camino. They have mounted an exhibition to celebrate their success over the last 20 years. I visited it yesterday. It is very well done, full of sound and light shows, pictures and models of the albergues that have been built and a litany of statistics. For example did you know that in the 20 years since Xacabeo has been operating numbers on the camino have grown by a factor of 32? </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">The exhibition also contains some replicas of artifacts and a copy of the Codex Calixtinus in Gallego which was produced in recent times. I held a copy of the tome in my hands. That is probably the nearest I will ever get to the real medieval book which was of course stolen from the cathedral archives recently. Conspiracy theories still abound on that one with newspaper pundits feeding off local gossip publishing theories that the priceless book was stolen by cathedral insiders in an effort to embarrass and therefore depose the unpopular Dean of the Cathedral. Frankly I think this is simply hogwash and I subscribe to the theory that the book was stolen to order by professional art thieves. In 2003 I was talking to the Duke of Baccleuch (as one does!) just after a painting by Leonardo da Vinci was stolen from his home, Drumlanrig Castle. He said, "Yes it is a shock but the authorities say these things are so rare it is hard to for them to be sold and usually they are found...eventually" Four years later the Leonardo was returned. Let's hope the same is true of the Codex. </span></div></div><div class="section"></div><div class="section"></div></div><div class="section"><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">The exhibition: </span><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt; font-weight: 700;">Xacabeo, 20 years on the Way </span><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">is open daily until 23 December 2011 in the exhibition rooms, San Martin Pinario. Entrance Free. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt; font-weight: 700;">New airport for Santiago </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">For the last few days it has been pouring with rain in Santiago. All day. "Raining cats and dogs" is a phrase in English which is universally known in Santiago. I wonder why? But during one of the better days I decided to go out to see the new airport at Lavacolla and walk back home on the Camino Frances. Although I'd seen reports of the new airport in the newspapers I was still very impressed by the sheer scale and elegance of the new facilities. This is not Heathrow or La Guardia but it is a far cry from the airport of 1932: </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">The new reception and check-in areas are vaulted, huge airy spaces. There are modern restaurants and coffee stalls with giant televisions. There is a new baggage reclaim designed not only to cope with the existing </span><span style="font-family: 'TimesNewRomanPSMT'; font-size: 10pt;">2 million passengers per year but also for significant </span><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">growth in passenger numbers who will be attracted by the routes served by the airport. I thought pilgrims planning trips perhaps also involving a holiday at the end of a hard walked Camino might be interested to see the current list of destinations: ALICANTE </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'TimesNewRomanPSMT'; font-size: 10pt;">BARCELONA BILBAO FRANKFURT /HAHN FUERTEVENTURA </span></div></div><div class="section"></div><div class="section"></div></div><div class="section"><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'TimesNewRomanPSMT'; font-size: 10pt;">GINEBRA<br />
GRAN CANARIA<br />
LANZAROTE<br />
LONDON<br />
MADRID<br />
MALAGA<br />
MILAN<br />
PALMA DE MALLORCA<br />
PARIS /CHARLES DE GAULLE<br />
REUS<br />
SEVILLA<br />
TENERIFE<br />
V ALENCIA<br />
ZURICH<br />
</span><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt; font-weight: 700;">Aeropuerto Santiago de Compostela: </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Lavacolla S/N 15820 Santiago de Compostela </span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: 'TimesNewRomanPSMT'; font-size: 10pt;">Telephone 902 404 704 </span><span style="color: blue; font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">http://www.aena-aeropuertos.es/csee/Satellite/Aeropuerto-Santiago/es/ </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt; font-weight: 700;">New Museum of Pilgrimage in Santiago </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Back in 1951 a very modest Museum of Pilgrimages was founded in the city. It was established in what is known as the "Gothic House" parts of which date to the 14th Century (Left). However the Museum didn't become permanent until 1996 and of course since then visitor numbers have grown like topsy, maybe because entrance is free. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">At the moment the exhibitions are divided between pilgrimage generally in the world and the Camino to Santiago in particular. I found the exploration of the phenomenon of pilgrimage in many cultures across all continents very interesting and I think this is something on which they will expand. And expand they will, because the Museum is moving to bigger, better and more central premises. Some of you may remember this building in the Plaza Platerias - just beside the Pilgrims' Office: </span></div></div><div class="section"></div><div class="section"></div><div class="section"></div></div><div class="section"><div class="section"></div><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">This former home of the Banco de Espana has been under major renovation and construction for some time and was due to be open as the new home of them Museum of Pilgrimages in October. However such is the scale of the building work to an historic building there have been inevitable delays. It will however be open soon and will look like this: </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">For those wishing to visit the current </span><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt; font-weight: 700;">Museum of Pilgrimage:<br />
</span><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Rua de San Miguel, 4. 15704 Santiago de Compostela </span><span style="color: blue; font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">http://www.mdperegrinacions.com/ </span><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Entrance free </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">All the numbers for the year so far: </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">In the month of October almost 16,000 pilgrims arrived. The total number in the year so far is analysed as follows: </span></div></div><div class="section"></div><div class="section"></div></div><div class="page" title="Page 5"><div class="section"><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 18pt;">The number of pilgrims who arrived between 1 January 2011 and 31 October 2011 is 177.939 </span></div></div><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt; font-weight: 700;">Countries </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Spain Germany Italia Portugal France United States Ireland </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">UK<br />
Holand<br />
Canadá<br />
Brasil<br />
Austria<br />
Poland<br />
Denmark Belgium<br />
Corea<br />
Australia Sweden<br />
México Switzerland República Checa Norway </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Japón Hungría Argentina Finlandia Eslovenia Eslovaquia South Africa V enezuela Colombia Russia </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">New Zealand Rumania Chile Ecuador </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt; font-weight: 700;">Gender </span></div><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt; font-weight: 700;">Number of pilgrims </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">94847 (53,30%) 16333 (9,18%) 11991 (6,74%) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">8446 (4,75%) 7980 (4,48%) 3623 (2,04%) 2609 (1,47%) 2297 (1,29%) 2284 (1,28%) 2240 (1,26%) 1872 (1,05%) 1789 (1,01%) 1779 (1,00%) 1590 (0,89%) 1575 (0,89%) 1536 (0,86%) 1347 (0,76%) 1206 (0,68%) 1155 (0,65%) 1148 (0,65%) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">941 (0,53%) 909 (0,51%) 802 (0,45%) 744 (0,42%) 668 (0,38%) 636 (0,36%) 559 (0,31%) 545 (0,31%) 502 (0,28%) 415 (0,23%) 409 (0,23%) 236 (0,13%) 224 (0,13%) 198 (0,11%) 174 (0,10%) 170 (0,10%) </span></div></div><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Male 102548 (57,63%) Female 75391 (42,37%) </span></div></div></div></div><div class="page" title="Page 6"><div class="section"><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt; font-weight: 700;">Method of travel </span></div></div><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">On foot Bicycle Horse Wheelchair </span></div><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">148461 (83,43%) 28960 (16,28%) 485 (0,27%) 33 (0,02%) </span></div></div><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt; font-weight: 700;">Motivation for pilgrimage </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Religious or spiritual 89063 (50,05%) </span></div></div><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Religious Not religious </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt; font-weight: 700;">Starting point </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Sarria<br />
S. Jean P. Port León<br />
Cebreiro Roncesvalles Ponferrada<br />
Tui<br />
Oporto<br />
Astorga<br />
Pamplona<br />
Burgos<br />
Le Puy<br />
Oviedo - C.P. Vilafranca Valença do Minho Resto Portugal Irún<br />
Ferrol<br />
Sevilla<br />
Ourense<br />
Francia Triacastela<br />
Resto C. León Oviedo<br />
Resto Asturias Lugo - C.P. Ribadeo<br />
Samos<br />
Santander Logroño<br />
Somport </span></div><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">77900 (43,78%) 10976 (6,17%) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">38230 (21,48%) 18580 (10,44%) 10477 (5,89%) 9844 (5,53%) 9138 (5,14%) 7857 (4,42%) 7489 (4,21%) 6479 (3,64%) 5837 (3,28%) 4098 (2,30%) 3830 (2,15%) 3184 (1,79%) 2870 (1,61%) 2847 (1,60%) 2728 (1,53%) 2696 (1,52%) 2469 (1,39%) 2381 (1,34%) 2229 (1,25%) 2141 (1,20%) 2053 (1,15%) 1786 (1,00%) 1406 (0,79%) 1369 (0,77%) 1203 (0,68%) 1166 (0,66%) 1094 (0,61%) 1072 (0,60%) 926 (0,52%) 921 (0,52%) 854 (0,48%) </span></div></div></div></div><div class="page" title="Page 7"><div class="section"><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Bilbao<br />
Ponte de Lima<br />
Alemania<br />
Holanda<br />
Salamanca<br />
Vilalba<br />
Lisboa<br />
Gijón<br />
A vilés<br />
Resto País Vasco<br />
Sahagún<br />
Zamora<br />
Resto Asturias - C.P. Madrid - C.F.<br />
Bélgica<br />
Puebla de Sanabria<br />
Suiza<br />
Jaca<br />
Resto Cantabria<br />
Frómista<br />
San Sebastián<br />
Vega de Valcarce<br />
Carrión de los Condes Braga<br />
Neda<br />
Baamonde<br />
Gudiña<br />
Lourdes<br />
Cataluña<br />
Sto. Domingo de la Calzada Madrid<br />
Puente la Reina<br />
Granja de Moreruela Rabanal del Camino Porriño<br />
Mondoñedo<br />
Fonsagrada - C.P.<br />
Mérida<br />
Hospital de Orbigo<br />
Vigo<br />
V ezelay<br />
Arles<br />
Lourenzá<br />
Zaragoza<br />
Navarra<br />
Muxia<br />
Hendaya </span></div><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">834 (0,47%) 788 (0,44%) 716 (0,40%) 680 (0,38%) 644 (0,36%) 641 (0,36%) 628 (0,35%) 614 (0,35%) 492 (0,28%) 455 (0,26%) 448 (0,25%) 439 (0,25%) 393 (0,22%) 382 (0,21%) 337 (0,19%) 329 (0,18%) 303 (0,17%) 294 (0,17%) 276 (0,16%) 265 (0,15%) 263 (0,15%) 257 (0,14%) 254 (0,14%) 253 (0,14%) 238 (0,13%) 237 (0,13%) 229 (0,13%) 217 (0,12%) 202 (0,11%) 202 (0,11%) 197 (0,11%) 191 (0,11%) 185 (0,10%) 182 (0,10%) 179 (0,10%) 173 (0,10%) 169 (0,09%) 158 (0,09%) 152 (0,09%) 150 (0,08%) 149 (0,08%) 144 (0,08%) 139 (0,08%) 133 (0,07%) 129 (0,07%) 125 (0,07%) 121 (0,07%) </span></div></div></div></div><div class="page" title="Page 8"><div class="section"><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Com. Valenciana Cáceres<br />
Resto C. León - V.P. Abadin </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Laza<br />
Estella<br />
R.Pais Vasco Chaves-Portugal<br />
V alencia<br />
Barcelona<br />
Austria<br />
Resto Europa<br />
Grandas de Salime - C.P. V erín<br />
Montserrat<br />
Resto Andalucia Molinaseca<br />
Xunqueira de Ambia Resto de Extremadura Francia<br />
Grandas de Salime Finisterra<br />
Tineo - C.P.<br />
Canfranc<br />
Rábade<br />
Tineo<br />
Cast. la Mancha Fonsagrada<br />
Granada<br />
Italia<br />
Com. Valenciana Castilla La Mancha<br />
La Rioja<br />
París<br />
Cadavo<br />
Allariz<br />
Povoa de Varzim Castilla la Mancha Huelva<br />
Malaga<br />
V alladolid<br />
Nájera<br />
Benavente<br />
San Sebastian<br />
Córdoba<br />
Cataluña<br />
La Mesa </span></div><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">121 (0,07%) 116 (0,07%) 115 (0,06%) 110 (0,06%) 105 (0,06%) 103 (0,06%) 102 (0,06%) 102 (0,06%) 101 (0,06%) 101 (0,06%) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">96 (0,05%) 95 (0,05%) 93 (0,05%) 92 (0,05%) 88 (0,05%) 84 (0,05%) 82 (0,05%) 76 (0,04%) 75 (0,04%) 75 (0,04%) 68 (0,04%) 65 (0,04%) 65 (0,04%) 61 (0,03%) 60 (0,03%) 59 (0,03%) 58 (0,03%) 58 (0,03%) 58 (0,03%) 58 (0,03%) 57 (0,03%) 54 (0,03%) 53 (0,03%) 49 (0,03%) 48 (0,03%) 48 (0,03%) 47 (0,03%) 46 (0,03%) 39 (0,02%) 39 (0,02%) 36 (0,02%) 35 (0,02%) 34 (0,02%) 34 (0,02%) 32 (0,02%) 32 (0,02%) 32 (0,02%) </span></div></div></div></div><div class="page" title="Page 9"><div class="section"><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Roma Salas Badajoz Castrojeriz Murcia </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">A Guarda<br />
Resto Galicia Fonfría<br />
V egadeo Ponferrada. C.Inv. Reino Unido Republica Checa Polonia<br />
La Rioja<br />
Grado<br />
La Bañeza<br />
Leyre<br />
San Juan de Ortega Baiona<br />
Dinamarca<br />
A Rúa Luxemburgo Sobrado<br />
Finlandia<br />
Inglaterra<br />
Vilabade<br />
Viveiro<br />
Irlanda<br />
Hungría<br />
Monforte de Lemos Covelo<br />
Gonzar<br />
Ortigueira<br />
Paradela<br />
V alcarlos Jerusalem<br />
Andorra<br />
Egipto<br />
Reino Unido Artieda<br />
Betanzos<br />
Borres<br />
Cea<br />
El Escamplero Guntín<br />
Mella<br />
Peñaseita </span></div><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">32 (0,02%) 30 (0,02%) 27 (0,02%) 26 (0,01%) 23 (0,01%) 23 (0,01%) 22 (0,01%) 19 (0,01%) 19 (0,01%) 18 (0,01%) 16 (0,01%) 13 (0,01%) 13 (0,01%) 13 (0,01%) 12 (0,01%) 12 (0,01%) 11 (0,01%) 11 (0,01%) 11 (0,01%) 10 (0,01%) 10 (0,01%) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">8 (0,00%) 6 (0,00%) 5 (0,00%) 5 (0,00%) 5 (0,00%) 4 (0,00%) 3 (0,00%) 3 (0,00%) 3 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) </span></div></div></div></div><div class="section"><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Petín 1 (0,00%) Pontedeume 1 (0,00%) Silleda 1 (0,00%) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt; font-weight: 700;">Employment status </span></div></div><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Employed Students Technicians Retired Professionals Teachers<br />
Civil Servants Manual workers Housewives Unemployed Artists Directors Priests </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Farm Workers Religious Sailors Sportsment Oikoten </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt; font-weight: 700;">Ages of pilgrims </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">30 - 60 < 30<br />
> 60 </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt; font-weight: 700;">Routes followed </span></div></div><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">43412 (24,40%) 31126 (17,49%) 24508 (13,77%) 19964 (11,22%) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">17695 (9,94%) 13469 (7,57%) 9122 (5,13%) 5899 (3,32%) 3891 (2,19%) 3884 (2,18%) 1476 (0,83%) 1278 (0,72%) 804 (0,45%) 553 (0,31%) 483 (0,27%) 215 (0,12%) 108 (0,06%) 52 (0,03%) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">102256 (57,47%) 50704 (28,50%) 24979 (14,04%) </span></div></div><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Frances-Camino de 128869 (72,42%) </span></div></div><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Portugues-Camino Norte-Camino de Via de la Plata Primitivo-Camino Ingles-Camino Otros caminos Muxia-Finisterre </span></div><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">21473 (12,07%) 11819 (6,64%) 7698 (4,33%) 4889 (2,75%) 2625 (1,48%) 376 (0,21%) 190 (0,11%) </span></div></div><div class="section"></div><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Posted by Johnnie Walker at </span><span style="color: blue; font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">11:52 2 comments </span><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Labels: </span><span style="color: blue; font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Santiago, Santiago Diary </span></div></div><div class="section"></div><div class="section"></div><div class="section"></div><div class="section"></div></div><div class="section"><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 18pt; font-weight: 700;"><span style="font-size: small;">Tuesday, 25 October 2011</span> </span><br />
<span style="color: blue; font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: 700;">No more tears in heaven </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">A lot of people wouldn't associate the words "heroism" or "nobility" with pilgrims. And yet I wonder if maybe all pilgrims who walk to Santiago are heroes? I don't know. All I know is that heroism is sometimes more obvious than others. On my own pilgrimages and in my time in the Pilgrims' Office I've met people who have walked with disabilities or had to overcome huge challenges. Recently a man arrived carrying his rucksack who had walked with one leg and a crutch from France. Other pilgrims are obviously ill. Sometimes we find out how ill they are. For some it is the last pilgrimage. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">Often pilgrims arrive and the struggle they have made to reach the Tomb of the Apostle is etched on their faces. This can be true of pilgrims walking the 100 kms from Sarria as well as much longer distances. Maybe inside everyone's rucksack there is pain and suffering of some kind or another. But as in life some people are exceptional. I would like to tell you about two pilgrims. No pictures, no pack drill, and, as they say, some of the details have been changed. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">I looked up from my desk after I had pressed the gadget which flashes the desk number on the screen above the door. A middle aged couple approached. Quiet and demure, neatly dressed in hiking clothes. I guessed they were Spanish. They stood there almost at attention whilst I introduced myself and asked for their credenciales. As they handed them over I sensed their seriousness. For many people receiving the final stamp and the Compostela is a solemn moment. I opened out their credenciales on the desk in front of me and it was clear that theirs had been a long journey. I noticed the first stamp and asked for confirmation, "Where did you start from?" "Arles, in France," was the reply. Now it is not unusual for us to receive pilgrims who started in Arles. It is however highly unusual for two Spanish people living in Spain to travel this distance from outside their own country. I said that I'd heard the route was beautiful and I asked how they had found walking in France. We chatted as pilgrims do about walking, the route, where they slept and so on. I explained I was applying the final stamp of the Cathedral on their credenciales and asked them to confirm their names which would go on their Compostela. The atmosphere changed to one of greater seriousness. "Sir," they said, " we have walked before and we would like a dedication on our Compostelas." "Of course," I replied, "In what name?" I have learned that it is best not to ask anything about the dedication unless the information is volunteered. Sometimes the memory is too painful. As I wrote I kept my head down but the woman kept talking and the story emerged. "The name is that of our daughter. She died at the age of 10, 10 years ago. This is our 10th Compostela dedicated to her memory. Every year we have walked and every year we have needed to walk farther. This year we have walked farther than ever before. Now it is time to stop." </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">As I handed over their Compostelas we grasped each others hands. In that moment I saw the nobility of all pilgrims who walk with grief and pain yet have the courage to keep going because they walk with a purpose. Pilgrims also have a destination and this dignified couple had now reached theirs. A tear rolled down the mother's face which she brushed away saying quietly, almost to herself, "no more tears" as if saying it might make it so. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;">From John Walker </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 18pt; font-weight: 700;">And some news from Rebekah on the Meseta </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKCFLp3NmIjO7hHU1jknXEBbapaRSSKtxpt-9LeJos5_GMk0Db0CDVt0nnQ6MODUzrcdc4vngsTR-5DQXxq4fqGI846G24Dn8MwHpWbLAQ9O-qQRkT4bRsNxjoDDaXnPTZhjhCpZXfMq7a/s1600/IMG_2723.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKCFLp3NmIjO7hHU1jknXEBbapaRSSKtxpt-9LeJos5_GMk0Db0CDVt0nnQ6MODUzrcdc4vngsTR-5DQXxq4fqGI846G24Dn8MwHpWbLAQ9O-qQRkT4bRsNxjoDDaXnPTZhjhCpZXfMq7a/s1600/IMG_2723.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 18pt; font-weight: 700;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: 700;">See </span><span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">moratinoslife.blogspot.com/ </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: small; font-weight: 700;">Sunday, 6 November 2011 </span><br />
<span style="color: blue; font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: 700;">A Star is Born (Again) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;">From the upstairs bathroom the pilgrim roared for the second time this evening. Flu, maybe, or bad food. He is not the first vomitous traveler to share that awful serenade with the household. The toilet flushed, and a few moments later he shimmered down the stairs and into the living room where I sat. </span></div></div><div class="section"></div><div class="section"></div></div><div class="page" title="Page 12"><div class="section"><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;">"Rebekah," he said, pale-‐faced. "Do you believe in God?" </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;">Not exactly what I expected to hear just then. But hey. "Yeah, I do," I told him. "You guys been talking up there?" </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;">He smiled a little. I gave him a big glass of water. I told him to sit down, but he didn ́t want to. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;">"Something is happening to me today. Something amazing," he said. "I ́ve been walking for so long, and had such pain, and today I was walking alone so I just shouted and raged, like a madman. I am just so ready to give up. I tell myself if I get to this house and nobody is home, then that ́s it, it ́s a sign that my Camino is over. I am on the plane tomorrow and going home. But here I am. I feel like I am home." </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;">"You ́re welcome," I told him. "This is what we do here. You came to a good place." (His arrival was a reminder to me that my troubles could be a lot worse, and that pilgrims are the priority here.) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;">"I wonder if God sent me here. I was so glad to find you home, because I don ́t really want to go back home yet. I was up there lying in the bed, hearing the rain, and I just gave up anyway. I just told God, "I give up. You take this. I can ́t handle my life any more." And then I got up and want to the bathroom and threw up like I never threw up before. And now I feel like, wow. Like something amazing is happening. I don ́t have the flu. I am not sick, really. I think I just got rid of all the, well, </span><span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">shmutz </span><span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;">I ́ve been carrying in my mind forever." </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;">It was a Billy Graham moment. Anyone raised in Evangelical Land will recognize it. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;">"Wow," I told him. "Do you believe in God? In the Christian God, in Jesus?" "I do now," he said. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;">"Well, then. What you just did means, in Christian terms, you are a new creation. You just made a brand new start, spiritually. Your past is gone. You are born again." </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;">"It feels like maybe you are right," he said. "I ́m Protestant. I heard about this before, but it didn ́t really make sense..." We sat for a minute. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;">"What about the vomiting part?" he asked. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;">"That is unique," I told him. "I never heard of projectile conversion before. It might be your body just mirroring the cleanup that ́s going on in your spirit. But vomiting -‐-‐ I think that ́s maybe supposed to happen when your demons are exorcised. And that ́s one service we don ́t usually provide." </span></div></div></div></div><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;">"So I got a two-‐for-‐one bargain," he said, smiling. He smiled in all sincerity. We had a cup of tea. He then went off to sleep some more. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;">Moratinos isn ́t any more spiritual than any other place, but wonderful things happen here.<br />
We keep a mop and a bucket handy. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;">(This pilgrim is a pop star in Germany, a real character. I would post his photo but I do not want to violate his privacy, and New Creations are sometimes fragile. Besides, I still have not found the cable for my camera.) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">News from Clive Evans. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></span> <br />
<div class="section"><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS,BoldItalic'; font-size: 12pt;">Bom caminho! </span></div></div><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">‘Camino’ with an ‘h’? You’re in Portugal but still on track for Santiago [pic 1]! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">For some years Deb, my wife, and I have holidayed in rural Portugal, just south of the city of Coimbra, midway </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">between Porto and Lisbon. It’s lovely – </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">and as a bonus, we came across the </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS,Italic'; font-size: 10pt;">caminho de Santiago </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">just a few kilometres from the village where we stay. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">On the web, you can find a fair amount about the </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS,Italic'; font-size: 10pt;">caminho </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">in Portugal, but only starting from Porto, quite a bit further north. (Peterborough Pilgrim, Robert Hill, and others have walked it, I believe.) But south of Porto, I </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">struggled to find much information. So here’s a bit for anyone interested. </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">See map for the area where we walked [pic 2]. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">The </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS,Italic'; font-size: 10pt;">caminho portugues </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">runs, I believe, all the way from the Algarve, Faro, through Lisbon, Porto and into Spain. Deb and I, however, were only pretend peregrinos this year! We walked sections both ways or else tackled a section and then circled back to our (shhhh!) car. But in all, we walked a fair distance in the area south of Coimbra: from Netos, just north of Ansião, to Alvorge (where we met an Italian peregrino on whom I successfully tried out some Latin), through Rabaçal </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">where there’s a refugio in the ‘town’ hall, and onto Conimbriga. Then we </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">skirted Condeixa-a-Nova and headed on towards Coimbra. Apart from a couple of cyclists, this walker was the only peregrino we met, but there was evidence of plenty of others in the earth! That said, this </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS,Italic'; font-size: 10pt;">caminho </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">was quiet. </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">Maybe it’s busier in the spring. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">The route is just as well marked as the various </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS,Italic'; font-size: 10pt;">caminos </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">in Spain and, in the sections we followed, covers similar terrain </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">– </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">flat stretches and some ascents and descents. The surfaces were varied: some tarmac; much farm track and some lovely and very narrow footpaths. Rural Portugal is lovely and walking through it lovelier still! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">We’ve also walked other short sections of the </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS,Italic'; font-size: 10pt;">caminho </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">by accident </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">– </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">in Coimbra and also in Porto: I say, by accident, because we have chanced upon some yellow arrows there! (As an added bonus, there also </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS,Italic'; font-size: 10pt;">blue </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">arrows! These are helpfully in completely the opposite direction from Santiago and they lead you to Fatima, which is not </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">far away to the south. So if you meet any blue, you know you’re going wrong for Santiago!) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">The countryside is lovely [pic 3] and the temperatures not too bad even for walking midday in July, thanks to the nearby mitigating influence of the Atlantic. The Beiras, the name given to this area of Portugal, are neither bone- dry Spain nor wet and squidgy Galicia! You are, of course, well further south than this and the flora reflects this: plenty of yummy fruit to pick along the way! The figs were especially excellent. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">There is plenty of interest to see: Rabaçal is home to a famous cheese. Conimbriga is the site of a world-class Roman city, many remains and a museum with one especially splendid villa to visit [pic4]. Coimbra has been </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">described as ‘the Oxford of Portugal’ – </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">a lovely ancient university city [pic 5] with loads to see. And Porto: you could spend days there. The </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS,Italic'; font-size: 10pt;">caminho </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">tracks across a famous bridge, built by Eiffel of the tower fame [pic 6]! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">So, in conclusion, </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS,Italic'; font-size: 10pt;">o caminho portuges: </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">plenty to commend it. Plenty to see, lovely countryside and people. Adequate provision of refugios but probably a smattering of Portuguese would be needed. And don’t </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">try out your </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">Spanish in Portugal: not a good idea! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">And finally, on a personal note, advanced notice of a book, another book, yes, about the </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS,Italic'; font-size: 10pt;">Camino. </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">I walked the Vίa </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">de la Plata, from Sevilia upto Finisterre in 2009 and I’m about to get a book of this journey published. I’ll keep </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">you posted. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;">Clive Evans<br />
12th September 2011</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;"><span style="font-size: large;">The Camino from Porto </span>is one that many of our members have used. It is now the preferred route for 'first time' pilgrimages. So come and join us next May -Ed.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 10pt;"> </span></div></div></div><span style="font-family: 'Cambria'; font-size: 12pt;"><br />
</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><span style="font-family: 'Times'; font-size: 10pt;"><br />
</span></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-77643967747687102392011-09-08T07:16:00.000-07:002011-09-08T07:16:41.816-07:00A recap of recent news.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjSkMzhlwW9KkRt4Zr1isteM2sHit56-A-VVvhJeZyiUPWf6QQik_dhMiZ5KG9-qkKy_SF8tJqmj2ShaEIdSdIlo6un3Dk21l5UM1a8pHVKCjSHlj84WO5Lsz4tdyUoelm4nnUo7A65dXe/s1600/Picture1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjSkMzhlwW9KkRt4Zr1isteM2sHit56-A-VVvhJeZyiUPWf6QQik_dhMiZ5KG9-qkKy_SF8tJqmj2ShaEIdSdIlo6un3Dk21l5UM1a8pHVKCjSHlj84WO5Lsz4tdyUoelm4nnUo7A65dXe/s1600/Picture1.png" /></a></div>Here is a picture of the newest member of Peterborough Pilgrims to Santiago.<br />
Joseph Cameron. He is an intern with us. His work will be help<br />
develop a youth pilgrimage next year. We hope to establish Santiago pilgrimage<br />
with young people in the UK in much the same way as it is practiced in Spain.<br />
So if you know anyone between the ages of 16 and 24 who would like to come with<br />
us next year, we are open for business. For the time being he is staying at the Vicarage<br />
in Far Cotton. If would like to contact him and invite him to your youth group,<br />
his email address is:-camo1990@hotmail.co.uk.<br />
Joseph will be part of the Pilgrimage that leaves the UK on Saturday for a<br />
walk from Hospital Orbigeo to Santiago.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiamnPlEYTueC9gGfdpPq0jqHKz_GH0zomG8QBkkJha3DTB_CddMrpjK-gRR1p36zNBwhwt6nELyQzZgUCbQ-dqeixRkBxvjcightpV3M7vtCorsLVsFAFMsOJvjTlALElDk1o6KKoq1KG7/s1600/DSCF2542.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiamnPlEYTueC9gGfdpPq0jqHKz_GH0zomG8QBkkJha3DTB_CddMrpjK-gRR1p36zNBwhwt6nELyQzZgUCbQ-dqeixRkBxvjcightpV3M7vtCorsLVsFAFMsOJvjTlALElDk1o6KKoq1KG7/s320/DSCF2542.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The Pilgrims enjoy lunch on a recent practice hike, getting ready for the September<br />
pilgrimage. They are Julie and Ian Staires and Pamela Coulter.<br />
The other two members of the pilgrimage are, Joseph Cameron, above,<br />
and me. We go to Hospital on Saturday and return on the 22 September.<br />
<br />
<u><b><span style="color: red;">Spanish lessons.</span></b></u><br />
<span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;">Mercedes Finning will be teaching Spanish to all comers this Autumn. This time it</span></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;">will be much nearer a formal adult education event that last year</span>.<span style="color: black;"> Details Soon.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"> </span><br />
<b><u><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: #674ea7;">1st Sunday Gatherings.</span></span></u></b><br />
<span style="color: red;"><span style="color: #674ea7;"><span style="color: black;">You may remember that at the Jiuly pilgrim feast I announced that we would be start a</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><span style="color: #674ea7;"><span style="color: black;">group on the first Sunday afternoon of each month at 4pm. This is for those who want</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><span style="color: #674ea7;"><span style="color: black;">to explore what it means to live life as a pilgrimage . We start on the first Sunday of October.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><span style="color: #674ea7;"><span style="color: black;">It is open to all and is not restricted to those who have been on a pilgrimage with us. </span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><span style="color: #674ea7;"> </span></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-44877901289489719062011-08-12T02:50:00.000-07:002011-08-12T02:50:57.100-07:00A trip to the Bristish Museum<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMmqgQPxkMd5YizxKYLlajPVR-XKWweM4_9UBJ5-SfnI3O2Jo5x8La92yyqPthWm33aSPFSGNHQ_QSFBX8kcJi8zvDb3uT4gS2YsoKmXqpfh1E9gSznQj7OHikSogEHFR_Oq7JgMLKGh3/s1600/Screen+Shot+2011-08-12+at+10.37.08.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMmqgQPxkMd5YizxKYLlajPVR-XKWweM4_9UBJ5-SfnI3O2Jo5x8La92yyqPthWm33aSPFSGNHQ_QSFBX8kcJi8zvDb3uT4gS2YsoKmXqpfh1E9gSznQj7OHikSogEHFR_Oq7JgMLKGh3/s320/Screen+Shot+2011-08-12+at+10.37.08.png" width="300" /></a></div>A small group of pilgrims went to the above exhibition yesterday. It was<br />
the common view that it is well worth a visit. There are plenty of interesting<br />
and often unusual relics to see. It was even more interesting to notice the<br />
difference between the mindset of modern, scientific man and the men and<br />
women of the medieval ages. For a Santiago pilgrim this paradigm shift is<br />
not very difficult to leap. It is clear that they had a much bigger view of<br />
what constitutes reality. However the exhibition has twist in the tale.<br />
The last exhibit is a projection of Lenin and other cult figures of the twentieth<br />
centry as well as a referance to the cult of personality and our use of grave<br />
memorials to those we love. This left the question hanging in the air; Is this<br />
so different. Is it not just another way of getting back in touch with someone<br />
who is important to you? Which is a great question. Are not that Saints still with<br />
us?Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-82693535865728213642011-08-10T00:53:00.000-07:002011-08-10T00:53:12.773-07:00The ned of an old friend. <style>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGCiLSFPKmYZusccX1CiVMvwYxMAQXxLJsY6vervjnCLNs5bAjIhhyiavYtDm-RGcZMP0iJ26XJAgNx8O_98MbMFCDv8anoPmx_2qaqzWzeeVjSF4mwl4jVnr9bMYdpLY4ll1SOx3Fws0g/s1600/Screen+Shot+2011-08-10+at+08.49.11.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGCiLSFPKmYZusccX1CiVMvwYxMAQXxLJsY6vervjnCLNs5bAjIhhyiavYtDm-RGcZMP0iJ26XJAgNx8O_98MbMFCDv8anoPmx_2qaqzWzeeVjSF4mwl4jVnr9bMYdpLY4ll1SOx3Fws0g/s320/Screen+Shot+2011-08-10+at+08.49.11.png" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14pt;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14pt;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><u><span style="color: #76923c; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: accent3; mso-themeshade: 191;">Peleghrin, ex-pet of Camino de Santiago is looking for a job </span></u><u><span style="color: #76923c; font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: accent3; mso-themeshade: 191;"> <br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" /> <br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" /> </span></u><u><span style="color: #76923c; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: accent3; mso-themeshade: 191;"></span></u></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">My name is Peleghrin. I have been replaced by another mascot. So I am unemployed and struggling to make ends meet. <br />
<br />
I write as I am interested to work on your team. I have eighteen years experience in the world of communication. My abilities as the Camino de Santiago mascot qualify me to work in the field of Public Relations. <br />
<br />
Around the world have carried out various communication events to guide pilgrims to Santiago. I</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">speak nineteen languages. <br />
<br />
Recently I completed a course for communitiy Xacobeo manager. I am the ideal candidate to work both offline and online, in the media situations. <br />
<br />
I am also the ideal pet to have in the office, caring, loving, persuasive, hardworking, sociable and a perfectionist. <br />
<br />
I would be pleased, to have the opportunity to demonstrate my skills in your company, so please take the opportunity to arrange an interview with you. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Xacobeo Santiago.</span><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"></span></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-18256646310880245492011-08-07T07:26:00.000-07:002011-08-07T13:28:52.334-07:00Some news of MeFor those who have followed the saga of my knee injury, I have some good<br />
news.Yesterday I went out on a walk. It was 10 miles in length, not enough<br />
yet but a good slug at it. I came back exhaused. That old pilgrim<br />
feeling- I am going to die I am so tired, but that was all. No knee pain.<br />
This is the first time since last August that I have felt this way. I have high<br />
hopes that this is the end of the trouble.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-45809219528084780512011-08-04T04:13:00.000-07:002011-08-04T04:13:14.376-07:00August is one of those months when you are either on holiday or having<br />
time off. So if you are I hope that you are having a good holiday. As most<br />
of you know I had a week in Spain in July. As a family we went to Tarragona,<br />
or Tarraco as Augustus Caesar called it in the first century BC.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8nanDU4twm0gV5mIz9VhASqaFllZ07ItJS2FjaBLpfY0VPBApwYwrVnT3zzgZ6Z9NSvo_fzCJl4nX4hOhkLXiZcXRJLyJZLXxkQf64HwRJXv_8v95koMSy4CRn7OmjKAdLS9H-9Br7p-X/s1600/DSCF2493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8nanDU4twm0gV5mIz9VhASqaFllZ07ItJS2FjaBLpfY0VPBApwYwrVnT3zzgZ6Z9NSvo_fzCJl4nX4hOhkLXiZcXRJLyJZLXxkQf64HwRJXv_8v95koMSy4CRn7OmjKAdLS9H-9Br7p-X/s320/DSCF2493.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>I would like to show you a picture that Liz took on that trip. Yes it shows a<br />
fat man in front of a wall, and yes that fat man is me. But this is no<br />
ordinary wall. This one was built by Augustus. it is 2100 years old.<br />
One thing that the Romans were not, was jerry builders! A wall from<br />
the biblical period. But is it a biblical wall?<br />
<br />
Tradition has it that St Paul, after a two year imprisonment came to Spain to the<br />
well established church at Terraco . Here is a link if you would like to<br />
explore this idea a little more.<a href="http://johnsonspain.tripod.com/id69.html">http://johnsonspain.tripod.com/id69.html</a>.<br />
So by extension Paul may well have stood on the same spot as I am standing,<br />
and he would have been about the same age, maybe even the same shape. That is<br />
without the loud shirt.<br />
<br />
This wall brought home to me the doctrine of the communion of the Saints. It<br />
took me a little further that that. A gate is still standing that Paul used. And it<br />
was only yesterday that it happened. Kinda makes you think that we are all in<br />
this together. Paul, James and the rest of the Apostles are not long lost<br />
folk of history, but living breathing men whose shadow has only just vanished.<br />
They are out of reach, but only just. Pilgrims just over the next hill. And I am<br />
catching them up fast. Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-17587010768207289932011-07-31T13:55:00.000-07:002011-07-31T13:58:32.424-07:00Sad News of the CaminoThis may be in Spanish, but you will understand it through the pictures<br />
<a href="http://youtu.be/HE9XyncwZUQ">http://youtu.be/HE9XyncwZUQ</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-61299018428286553322011-07-28T06:19:00.000-07:002011-07-28T06:19:49.805-07:00Part of a new documentry; Enjoy.<object style="height: 390px; width: 640px;"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/USGEpnSpudM?version=3"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/USGEpnSpudM?version=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="640" height="390"></object><br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USGEpnSpudM&feature=player_embedded">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USGEpnSpudM&feature=player_embedded</a><br />
<br />
I enjoyed this. There is more to be seen of this, the links will bring it all up.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-53699848621205893272011-07-26T03:38:00.000-07:002011-07-26T03:38:24.156-07:00A review of a new book.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjyAEkeNw5XGYRJIb6bvNcDqTavw7TSRQWT2dMu2ucmCIuxIwHJKlVekjr-A-P-u06Ejrz7wf6WOaKWxP9uv3On3DfE0TH53kYgGiG9orN6TzzylGoyjp12MD40Xf9QEdYzLLz6L4fk7Mf/s1600/SKMBT_C25311072610150.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjyAEkeNw5XGYRJIb6bvNcDqTavw7TSRQWT2dMu2ucmCIuxIwHJKlVekjr-A-P-u06Ejrz7wf6WOaKWxP9uv3On3DfE0TH53kYgGiG9orN6TzzylGoyjp12MD40Xf9QEdYzLLz6L4fk7Mf/s640/SKMBT_C25311072610150.png" width="596" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-91055126481698977422011-07-25T03:01:00.000-07:002011-07-25T03:01:21.344-07:00From Fiona Inman's most recent pilgrimage from St Jean<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw0CbVhLrSpgdcu5JguP-V7KlbopsAujpWopiXX6UwA0P0CBI6FOwuDD-LZBqmLlrUhH-BffiYcD218_8oEZ8LpGisqiL6Zmpzk25OHTdKOotcV82OM-ZPMrNPds0fN0PYaF1GlMAqoIfm/s1600/mum%2527s+camino+etc+032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw0CbVhLrSpgdcu5JguP-V7KlbopsAujpWopiXX6UwA0P0CBI6FOwuDD-LZBqmLlrUhH-BffiYcD218_8oEZ8LpGisqiL6Zmpzk25OHTdKOotcV82OM-ZPMrNPds0fN0PYaF1GlMAqoIfm/s320/mum%2527s+camino+etc+032.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMfI8T2DzfOGPwQLAZC94_U8OZMS_f__p1ibPkh2aIhNOzzZyusC-wc0MIZVEViG6K_jiK-7eTKlcbLdFlEdSDokrFL5QC-M9qSq-WRKAZB6_t5GT39mIPCPUagx-kE6TpGCpDPUggR0Ke/s1600/mum%2527s+camino+etc+118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMfI8T2DzfOGPwQLAZC94_U8OZMS_f__p1ibPkh2aIhNOzzZyusC-wc0MIZVEViG6K_jiK-7eTKlcbLdFlEdSDokrFL5QC-M9qSq-WRKAZB6_t5GT39mIPCPUagx-kE6TpGCpDPUggR0Ke/s320/mum%2527s+camino+etc+118.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ktbHsmSRxy9C2FgnAt70gPiJAa7rzEPqfZeQ7Sbb7yblAZjShEwbbDFUDPJS1dkwyXiQrRuP-enwTmhoPOraJpMGtmrJy-xiyStRodF_UHV4MYDlCq9t8DKrEshaARZF_G2XLjwLpBb3/s1600/mum%2527s+camino+etc+131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ktbHsmSRxy9C2FgnAt70gPiJAa7rzEPqfZeQ7Sbb7yblAZjShEwbbDFUDPJS1dkwyXiQrRuP-enwTmhoPOraJpMGtmrJy-xiyStRodF_UHV4MYDlCq9t8DKrEshaARZF_G2XLjwLpBb3/s320/mum%2527s+camino+etc+131.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9kww56GOdTRkZWstlooGKZSlgZj36VbLon4wrFgjvZfq8c0mvpeIDqnA0o3SSyEGP5-r5eT2O4PRaog9fCHfJhNcRCyZh06bks_BNmcz7cFfOS_LJazNFNsxyxDFOOYmHPD1LIaDr7f8L/s1600/mum%2527s+camino+etc+136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9kww56GOdTRkZWstlooGKZSlgZj36VbLon4wrFgjvZfq8c0mvpeIDqnA0o3SSyEGP5-r5eT2O4PRaog9fCHfJhNcRCyZh06bks_BNmcz7cFfOS_LJazNFNsxyxDFOOYmHPD1LIaDr7f8L/s320/mum%2527s+camino+etc+136.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizZF-vi3IuftOET1SYPzYFkSCw-fTNu-ZwXJlUZ0LaZg-5oOi13EWwbl4qOCg0L6s_MsqZjh9OK9MKhB1bVZY2Kg7UmHrf9qGgX_cPBPHdXnt6zb6eJXJ0Q-o9Be32P7iev6cWyVLg5Y4a/s1600/mum%2527s+camino+etc+137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizZF-vi3IuftOET1SYPzYFkSCw-fTNu-ZwXJlUZ0LaZg-5oOi13EWwbl4qOCg0L6s_MsqZjh9OK9MKhB1bVZY2Kg7UmHrf9qGgX_cPBPHdXnt6zb6eJXJ0Q-o9Be32P7iev6cWyVLg5Y4a/s320/mum%2527s+camino+etc+137.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTEa5CELMw3XORsVD-G8wchUUvYZT6bkDCqEucbREGgJNWWebncOHoW7okK7courAahmoOtJ8O1RBKEFi-In9GmWUo7icVpp_zlIPUyhR-PfMTGkkxXVpZ3FeVO5c4K6ctN9CTLGHKoJJS/s1600/mum%2527s+camino+etc+170.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTEa5CELMw3XORsVD-G8wchUUvYZT6bkDCqEucbREGgJNWWebncOHoW7okK7courAahmoOtJ8O1RBKEFi-In9GmWUo7icVpp_zlIPUyhR-PfMTGkkxXVpZ3FeVO5c4K6ctN9CTLGHKoJJS/s320/mum%2527s+camino+etc+170.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy1Ygx3vDjAq7qk56OJukEv0geNiHZnJ3p0vrPfjaBfL2mMSkdaVRDRm0V0lNvjmo_CzODQf6DoFBVaYRBYcxGTIkZtB7jyaB7S3tRpvPOvnVzNmQ8FpRMiawnwFg86xe7jBgJ-zFB4q7p/s1600/mum%2527s+camino+etc+183.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy1Ygx3vDjAq7qk56OJukEv0geNiHZnJ3p0vrPfjaBfL2mMSkdaVRDRm0V0lNvjmo_CzODQf6DoFBVaYRBYcxGTIkZtB7jyaB7S3tRpvPOvnVzNmQ8FpRMiawnwFg86xe7jBgJ-zFB4q7p/s320/mum%2527s+camino+etc+183.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Seven weeks home from the camino and I'm still there . . .<br />
<br />
Our mountain crossing was very mistical, with sounds of cowbells and baaing sheep, the occasional horse looming up to take a look at us. No sign of the famous Madonna apparently a few metres from where we passed. New accommodation at Roncevalles was very Ikea, but comfortable beds in train compartment style arrangement. Similar at Pamplona where I think we slept in the South aisle of a 17 century church.<br />
<br />
The 4E alberque run by brothers at Puente de la Reina was one of my favourites. Have you walked back to the first hotel you pass on entering the town there and experienced the fantastic pilgrim buffet. 11E and unbelievably splendid. Arkadi's alberque at Sansol was lovely too, though pretty quirky - buckets under the basin u-bends- and not clean enough for some Germans who demanded their money back and left us a lovely airy room with chandelier, balcony, and old Spanish tiles on the floor.<br />
<br />
92 beds in one room at Najera was probably our most intimate experience with other bedfellows. We finished at Santo Domingo de la C at the peaceful Cistercian convent, bedroom window looking out into a fig tree and below to simple, tranquil garden where pilgirms' clothes hung out to dry.<br />
<br />
I'll attach a few photos so you can play "Guess Where?". I'm sorry we can't make this year's feast. When you have time please would you let me have Adele's email address? It would be lovely to hear from you too. Be sure to use this address to reply not Paul's which is defunct. <br />
<br />
Much love FionaUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-9840583222262863622011-07-15T00:12:00.000-07:002011-07-15T00:14:20.894-07:00Gone fishing.After today there will be break as I have a busy week ahead and it is<br />
unlikely that I will have time to post.<br />
So after today, and there maybe post later today, there will<br />
be nothing for a week. As the say in the southern states<br />
"Don't you forget to come back youall".Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-50231896665191241632011-07-14T14:26:00.000-07:002011-07-14T14:26:09.493-07:00Great TV with pilgrimsI have just watch a really great TV program on Northern Spain and its food<br />
made by Rick Stein. There are some good shots of Santiago, and its market.<br />
Well worth a look. Here is the URL http://www.bbc.co.uk/i/b012m958/Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-26259482226849487922011-07-14T06:32:00.000-07:002011-07-14T14:22:07.087-07:00I raise up on Eagles wings.This was sent to me today, so I am sharing it. Thanks to the one who sent it.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" src="data:image/png;base64,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" /><br />
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<pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>A farmer once took an egg from an eagle's nest. He took it home and </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>placed it under one of his hens and it hatched with a little brood </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>of chickens. The farmer raised the bird with great patience and attempted</tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>to tame him. The eagle never really seemed to fit in with the chickens. </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>It always walked alone; it could not seem to relate to or interact with </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>the chickens.
As the eagle grew, he realized something seemed to be wrong deep inside </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>of him. Even though he had never known any other existence but life in </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>the chicken yard, it just did not feel like home to him. He wanted to </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>leave the chicken yard and take to the skies. He even tried to </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>do so, and the farmer finally had to clip the eagle's wings to </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>keep him from flying away.
Since the eagle could not fly, he just sat in the chicken yard </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>looking up at the sky. One day a storm began to brew, the sky grew dark, </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>and all the barnyard animals scurried around for cover; the chickens </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>were terribly frightened, as chickens are prone to be. The eagle sat</tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>watching the scene in front of him, realizing the storm did not</tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>frighten him in the least.
At that moment, he could not help but stretch out his wings, and as </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>he did, he noticed that the farmer had failed to keep </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>them clipped.
Suddenly, his eye caught sight of a great eagle riding the wind </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>above him, his wings outstretched in majestic form.
The eagle that was raised as a chicken looked again at the </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>chickens scurrying around frantically, then returned his gaze to the </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>eagle soaring peacefully above him, then looked back at the chickens </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>and then up at the eagle again. He heard the eagle let out an awesome,</tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>piercing cry. In that instant, he knew he had to
get out of that chicken yard! A mighty gust of wind swept beneath his
outstretched wings and lifted him into the air. With a shrill scream </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>of victory and freedom, he left the barnyard forever.
YOU HAVE THE HEART OF AN EAGLE.
God has a great purpose for your life-and you cannot escape or ignore </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>the inner urge to "go for it." But do you also know you will have to </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>work hard; take risks; endure loneliness; leave some things behind; </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>make some difficult decisions; or perhaps be misunderstood, judged, </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>or even criticized in order to achieve and enjoy the fullness of </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>God's destiny for your life?
Know this: All eagles are uncomfortable in a barnyard. They </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>all It it ig for the clear, blue, open skies. When you are </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>living in a place that keeps you from being who you were made </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>to be and doing what you ,u r meant to do, you will be
uncomfortable too. When the thought of moving beyond where </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>you are begins to take root in your heart and mind, when a </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>seed of greatness begins to grow, when you have a burning </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>desire to step out of where you are or a desire to be adventurous.</tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>I'll do something new or different, pay attention to it. Begin to
act on it. But also realize that people around you may </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>not understand your desire to break out of the box. They may </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>want to clip your wings. They may even say, "Now just settle down </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>and be like all the other chickens. Here you have his nice chicken </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>yard and these nice little worms and grubs. Why should you
ever want any more than that?".
When you hear such comments and questions, something inside of </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>you may ask, What is wrong with me? Why do I think as I think? </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>Why do I feel this way? Why can't I just settle down and live </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>a normal life like everybody else? The reason you
cannot just settle down is that you are not a chicken; </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>you are an eagle! You will never feel at home in that chicken </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>yard because you were made for something bigger, more beautiful, </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>and more fulfilling.
The eagle is one of nature's best examples of strength, perseverance, </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>and determination. It is a bird who refuses to be denied its destiny, </tt></tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><tt>one who never gives up.</tt></tt></pre>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-55095675352910607562011-07-13T01:26:00.000-07:002011-07-13T01:26:55.380-07:00John's Camino<style>
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<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial;"> Recently John Oley returned from</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial;"> a pilgrimage from St Jean to Santiago. </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial;">Whilst he was away he kept in touch with </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial;">friends by long emails. With his permission </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial;">I reprint them for you to enjoy.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: large;">They are unedited and as he sent them to me</span>.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Date: Friday, 13 May, 2011, 11:12</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">John Oley wrote </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Subject: Camino</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-table-layout-alt: fixed;"><tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;"> <td style="border: none; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 480.0pt;" valign="top" width="480"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Dear Friends, Hola Peregrinos, ( and especially Mike W. can you please forward to Liz-Anne as I don´t have her address in my BT mail system)</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">This feels like ´Captains Star Log 13 May 2011 from Captain Kirk´. Instead I can let you know that I have reached Santo Domingo de Calzada- having walked the first 200k of my piklgrimage. As some of you know the pilgrimage started badly as I got very sick . Thanks to the ministrations of the German Hospitaleros at Casa Paderborn in Pamplona I recovered well. Today was a short day of 21k and there is a festival here so I will not make this a long note. I am still wondering why I am hereas I rise and start walking each morning around 6.am. Carolyn keeps me going with our regular 8.15(UK time ) call but it is double edged as it makes me wish I were at home with her.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">The Camino is very busy. Often the Albergues and refugios are full. Talk between Peregrinos is that there are more Pilgrims this year than last on this the Camino Frances. There was also a rumour that recently 600 pilgrims started on the same day! as most towns seem at best to offer around 180 beds I wonder what will happen. I have met many German peopleand made friends with some and with some Irish people. A couple of French Peregrinos greet me each day most warmly but my language skills are rather put to the test.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Weather has mainly been perfect for walking but the routes have become more made up with stone, or gravel, of tarmac. I fear none of this is good for walking. The Camino is now mainly suitable for cyclists, of whom there are many. I have yet to see any pigrims with donkeys or on horseback.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">To finish</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Dear friendsand peregrinos, I delight in your friendship, I feel sorrow for my times of being careless with any of you, I ask you to be careful of each other, and I hold you in my thoughts and payers, especially those of you who suffer.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Love and God Bless from the smiley English Peregrino. x :)</span></div></td> </tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Subject: <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Camino Thursday, 19 May, 2011, 17:30</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
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<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;"> <td style="border: none; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 475.0pt;" valign="top" width="475"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Dear Peregrinos y amigos,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">I am well and wish you all blessings and happiness. Thank you so much for all your lovely greetings.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">I have done 3 stages of my Brierley Guide to the Camino in the last two days.This was because the forecast was for bad weather and it turned out wrong. I had hurried to avoid rain. As I passed Castrojeriz I recalled Kimberley and Vivienne, this morning I remembered wher I had met Han and she had her herb tea, and Angela who was /is so smiley. I had breakfast at Fromista where I shared beers and wine with Paul of Tarsus and Gabriel. Tonight I am in Corrion de los Condes. Tomorrow night I hope to stay with Paddy y Rebekah. My legs are good. I am quieter and possibly less smiley than last year but it is hard to recall. I spend time thinking of you all. Some of this(as above) is remembering the past, BUT no-one in Spain can make Garlic soup like Ian.. I have to remind myself that the Camino is where I can stop being who I was and become who I am. I have had a lovely day of walking and talking and still find the German people so lovely. There are many German people and very few English. - Are we a Godless nation?</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">The one quote that I think of each day I leave to share with you and commend you to consider - ¨Am I a human being on a Spiritual Journey or a Spiritual Being on a Human Journey?"</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">My love and God Bless,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">John</span></div></td> </tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">From: JOHN OLEY <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Subject: Re: Camino</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Date: Sunday, 22 May, 2011, 7:23</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; margin-left: -5.4pt; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 0cm 0cm 0cm; mso-table-layout-alt: fixed;"><tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;"> <td style="border: none; padding: 0cm 0cm 0cm 0cm; width: 428.0pt;" valign="top" width="428"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Dear friends and Pilgrims, I am having 2 rest days in Moratinos at the home of Paddy and Rebekah who looked after me so well last year. I´m afraid I got the shin splints again but with the rest and the medication for the leg which Rebekahhas found and the tender care of my hosts and their guest Dael I am hopeful of continuing along the route. Today Carolyn and Sarah are off to Dubrovnik so my twice daily contact home will be missing.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">The days are peaceful here , Bob the canary sings, Lulu one of Paddy´s dogs barks to keep me away and occasionally Murphy the cat meows to be admitted or allowed out. P and R have a great CD collection so I´ve had the chance to listen to some Beethoven. I´ve also had the opportunity to give everyone in the Albergues a rest from my snoring- If any of you know how I can stop this irritating habit do email or txt. I plan to continue on the Camino tomorrow and will go more slowly to preserve my legs.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">God Bless you and may you be aware of His Blessings,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">John :)</span></div></td> </tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Date: Tuesday, 24 May, 2011, 12:34</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
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<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;"> <td style="border: none; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 480.0pt;" valign="top" width="480"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Dear Amigos y Peregrinos. Have arrived in Mansillas de las Mulas,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">My shin splints are a bit better today - I have put on lots of ibuprofen gel( I´d rather like to bathe in this), I have some more insoles(this makes 3 plus my boots insoles, I have prayed a lot- asked help from St James(Santiago) ;St Christopher, patron of travellers; St Thomas, ´cos he´s one of my heroes; St Jerome, ´cos I think he has something to do with medicine. I pray a lot for may people especially you lot that you will continue to be blessed and happy.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">I would like to be able to sing as I go but-a) I was told I had no voice when I was at school; b) Can´t remember hymns- I stopped Catholic church age 19; After my flirtation with Buddhism I eventually realised that Jesus is God only about 22 years ago and became a committed Anglican but mainly since then I have played organ so haven´t learned the words and ; Bolton haven’t made it to the cup-final SINCE 1958 so I don´t even know the words to ‘Abide with me´ and I don’t recognise Jerusalem as a hymn. Am meeting some nice people and some who irritate me. Am sustained by the odd call from Anthony Heath but he doesn’t have email so can’t thank him here. Get texts from Carolyn and Sarah on hols in Croatia.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">I was greatly sustained at The Peaceable Kingdom´ by Paddy and Rebekah- I cannot speak highly enough of them. I hope I didn’t drink too much of their wine tho´ I did get through buckets of ´Mrs Darby´(white wine ) at the local bar.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Tomorrow Leon and another rest day.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Love and God Bless you all.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Peregrino Ingles John</span></div></td> </tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Subject: Re: Camino</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Date: Wednesday, 25 May, 2011, 16:41</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-table-layout-alt: fixed;"><tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;"> <td style="border: none; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 423.0pt;" valign="top" width="423"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Dear Amigos and peregrinos,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Have reached Leon, Shin splints still a pain in the leg but I shall see what happens. Many people have much worse - some stop some walk on. Been to Mass at Cathedral saw some old friends. Will attend vespers and mass this evening at the Albergue- (where I met Fabio and Junior last year.) This is turning into a Religious day.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Thanks for all the messages of support and your prayers and blessings. I will move on heavy in leg, light in heart and thunderously angry that BWFC managed to lose all their last few games.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"> Bless you all and my thoughts and prayers are ever for you.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">John O</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">PS Can´t recall if I mentuioned meeting Glenn as we left Zubiri in 2009. I am still drawn back to memories of friends. This year lots of really nice Mexicans along with the usual sprinkling of Fr. It. German. Dutch. Danish. etc. Still few UK peregrinos. I was told this was because when the Camino was really popular was when England and Spain were always at war. so blame Hy8 and ER1.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">God Bless.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">x</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">From: JOHN OLEY <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Subject: Re: Camino</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Date: Friday, 27 May, 2011, 10:41</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-table-layout-alt: fixed;"><tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;"> <td style="border: none; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 475.0pt;" valign="top" width="475"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Hi Peregrinos and Amigos. Had an easy day today and will have an easy one tomorrow when I have booked a posh hotel room in Astorga. Shin splints much better- Thank you all for your prayers. Also helped by helping another shin splinted peregrino walk slower. He has moved on now. I think of you each day as I pray in the early morning. This is such a good time . Some refer to the Camino as your feet praying. My heart is light tho´I miss Carolyn and Sarah. I am supported by your messages.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">At Hospital de Orbigo where a knight´s tale is said to have given Cervantes the idea for Don Quixote. I feel comfartable and rested and will think of knight´s tales as I have a beer in the sun.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">God Bless you all,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">John </span></div></td> </tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">On <b>Sat, 28/5/11, JOHN OLEY </b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Subject: Camino still going</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Date: Saturday, 28 May, 2011, 11:50</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-table-layout-alt: fixed;"><tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;"> <td style="border: none; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 428.0pt;" valign="top" width="428"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Hola Amigos y Peregrinos.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">I have arrived in Astorga and checked myself into an expensive hotel room and have had a bath!!!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Yesterday I got so down about the rhythm of the Camino, the shared dormitory, and the shower. I promised myself some luxury.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">The shin splints were also a little worse today.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">To fill in on the last few days. On route I had met Claudio a crazy Italian man with very bad shins. He said I look like John Cleese but all around thought not unless he was observing the way I walk. Despite my advice Claudio continued and I saw him again in eon. I stayed at the Albergue where I first met Emma(Amelie) and Alexandre. The crazy Italian rushed off in the morning and I found him by the side of the road in abject pain. A Columbian, John, and I tried to wrestle his backpack from him and Guida a very pretty Danish girl fed Claudio with drugs. I walked slowly with to Virgen de Camino and we engaged in theological discussions , later we discovered that this had been overheard and of great interest to some Americans whom we met later.. After a trip to the pharmacy we walked at about 4 k an hour- going downhill backwards if the surface were tarmac and singing ´somewhere over a rainbow´ and other show tunes. This also provided entertainment for other peregrinos. The pace suited us both and I amused Claudio with quotes from Mae West and WC Fields. We parted company at Hospital de Orbigo, he moved on and I took another short day. The Hospitalero Pedro spent most of the day (from 11.am) in the bar next door and in the evening was very keen that he should buy me pints and visit him in Belfast. I fended off his kindness. The day for me was one when I became aware of my solitude. I went into an eeyore state for a while and if truth be told am still there as I await knowing why I am on the Camino this year. I have been greatly helped by all your emails and texts. Chris- I know I moved from Catholicism to agnosticism, to Buddhism, to Anglicanism but I suspect to support the ´mighty reds ´this evening would need an experience a little beyond that of Paul en route to Damascus. I may cheer for your enjoyment tho´ Chris´- . Many here support Real Madrid so will be rooting for Man U.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Tomorrow I will start the last 167 miles, which spookily is the distance from The Green in Evenley to the Reebok!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Today on my short walk to Astorga I spent my usual time in prayer- thinking also of Tarryn and Rachel who get married today I think- Brian if you have there email can you bounce this on and wish them well. I also spent time considering the difference between mysticism and spirituality. Strange what the brain will do whilst the shins are hurting and the ‘feet are praying´ (another description of the Camino). I also was aware that many peregrinos carry such burdens- most of the women who walk alone are divorcees, some of the men have told me of the stress of their lives and their illnesses. It seems I am very blessed if my major pain is my shins and the usual worry caused by BWFC losing 5 on the trot.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Tomorrow starts with a place I had breakfast last year and then a climb and then the Cruz de Ferro the following day when I will leave the stones I have brought from home.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">May your dog bring joy Natascha, the knees and hip heal well Dave, the heels get better Pete and you may find a partner for the Skye ridge.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"> Carolyn and Sarah are back in the UK today so I will be able to talk with them</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">My love to and my prayers for and my thoughts of you all.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">God Bless,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">John</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
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</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">JOHN OLEY </span></b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">wrote: <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Subject: Camino</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Date: Monday, 30 May, 2011, 11:33</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-table-layout-alt: fixed;"><tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;"> <td style="border: none; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 480.0pt;" valign="top" width="480"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Hoal Amigosand peregrinos,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">As I walk I recall that there are some chums I don’t have in my travelling address book so if any of you can please send my greetings and if you think appropriate this and any previous Camino emails to</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Evenley- Ronnie and Patricia</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Fiasco- FGF , Gill, and Kathy D</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"> and Peregrinos:-</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">First Peregrino Mark Agnew and his chum from Malaga Jose</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">The following I met in the snow in Foncebadon :- France- Josion, Charles et Marie-jo and Jorge, Josep and Xavi the Catalans.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Norma from Germany who I saw from Calzadillos to Santiago</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Also from Dresden the 3 friends- Brains, the chef and the washerman.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">and those I met in O’Cebreiro- Bea and Claudio from Italy and Matthanais the Austrian tenor.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">End of requests.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">I am moving only slowly the last 5 k downhill to Acebo has taken it´s toll on shins and knees. Last night I stayed at the CSJ Albergue in Rabanal. I got to Mass before lunch, vespers and Compline. Carolyn called me during the latter which did not amuse the Benedictine prior but he still gave me a blessing! We had afternoon tea at the Albergue in their garden- very English. I’ve stopped early today after leaving my stones at the Cruz de Ferro- very small stones this year as I think I’ve been tolerably well behaved. Also left a Waitrose charity token that’s been in my pocket. It could represent my wish to leave capital behind. perhaps it fits as well as the car key fobs, socks, flags, rings, shoes and other paraphernalia that people wish to leave along with the stones which represent the sins we carry.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">This year I called in on the knight templar at Manjarin. I won’t write this up.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">I saw 3 of my Mexican friends en route and we discussed the football- sorry Chris but Barca were so much better than MU and Messi deserves his medal- for his display alone they could give him the World Cup. I’d quite like BWFC to sign him but not sure that Mr Gartside will have the cash.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Today no snow (I had last year.)</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Will write soon but time running out on my connection.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Love and God Bless, to you all.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">John</span></div></td> </tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Subject: Camino break through</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Date: Tuesday, 31 May, 2011, 16:24</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-table-layout-alt: fixed;"><tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;"> <td style="border: none; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 475.0pt;" valign="top" width="475"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Dear or hola Amigos and Peregrinos, Here I am in Ponferrada with sore shins. so I thought I’d update on the 6 or is it 7 or 8 previous notes from the Camino. I mentioned in the last 2 that I’d been thinking about mysticism and spirituality and I rather skated over the trip to Manjarin and the last or is it most high Knight Templar. Well I called to see Tomas and took him greetings from the rather drunken Hospitalero at Hospital de Orbigo.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">This set my mind along 3possibilities.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Was I on a crusade- to beat my shins and knees into submission; or am I on a quest? I suspect Sir Gawain had influenced my wanderings perhaps I seek the Grail? or am I on a Camino seeking the Way , the Truth and the Life? I use the Brierley book as my guide and often he talks in personal reflections of having been reduced to tears- not me. You will recall my encounters with Claudio the crazy Italian from Bologna- with many people he met he recounts the tale of him at 6k+ an hour passing a distressed Peregrino moving at 2k an hour who gave him such a beatific smile that he sobbed and sobbed- not me. Last night I had my patata bravas with Christoph and Veronika, a German couple and we began to discuss their reason for being on the Camino. Well Amigos, I started to cry as I realised that I am on the Camino to say thank you. i am on a Camino odf thanksgiving- To God for His son Jesus and the opportunity to worship. And the opportunity to say thank you for all His blessings. The Blessing of Carolyn and Sarah- the best people in whom I delight. And the blessings of you lot my friends. Together you provide opportunities with you to run, to walk, to do crosswords, to watch football, to play music(organ or piano), to drink, to talk, to work. You provide me with concerts (I know some are simply Organ music), more football( I couldn’t let it pass), stimulating books to read( even if about Vietnam), Hospitality from bed and board to meals to wine and beer. You have shared your heartaches and your joys and triumphs, you have put up with my at times irascible and lugubrious nature.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">In person and in text speak you have given me hugs and kisses and smiles.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">I know if you have read my previous 6 or 7 emails you have got used to my whingeing about ´why am I here´¨ Now you know it’s to give thanks for my Wonderful Life- beginning to sound like a Jimmy Stewart line and I wasn’t thinking of a drunk and a 6 foot tall rabbit!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Anyway according to the sign at the Albergue here in Ponferrada I have just 202k to walk- so it’s taken me about 600k to work out.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Thank you- Thank God. I continue to pray for and think of you.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">God Bless,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">John</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">PS I forgot I think to ask - if any of you know Emma(Amelie) Ogden´s email to forward this to her.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Xoxox.</span></div></td> </tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">JOHN OLEY </span></b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">wrote:</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Date: Friday, 3 June, 2011, 14:45</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
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<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;"> <td style="border: none; padding: 0cm 0cm 0cm 0cm; width: 437.4pt;" valign="top" width="437"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Hola Amigos y peregrinos,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">I am still upright though after a bottle of wine at lunch that’s a feat in itself.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Yes, my Camino is one of giving thanks and continues to be so. I pray as </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">I set off each morning and spookily my prayers are so often answered. Try it- </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">it works.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">The night before last after a very trying day- the terrain was mainly tarmac and I suffered. On my way into Villafranca I had decided not to stay at the municipal albergue but was full of trepidation that later ones would be full. By the side of the road a man was handing out flyers to a relatively new albergue. ´Necessito una cama baya´I said si´´ was the reply- ´por favor reserva una cama. ´The Senor reserved a bed. Proper bed and only 12 in a room and then a very special shower with jets from practically 360 degrees and hot! I then poddled into town and found some S. Africans to chat to and then a lunch with Sopa de Ajo that was even better (sorry) than Ian’s. So I had now had an amazingly posh meal in Ponferrada and now a great soup.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">The following morning I embarked up the hill. I had coffee where I had met La di da Julia and then an Italian , Giuseppe, joined me . he walked me up the 20k of tarmac. We stopped to try to find where Mark had been ill with no success. We walked on, stopping for leg and foot maintenance. and then the climb to O’Cebreiro. My shin splints really only come into play downhill and on tarmac. I stormed up the hill 600+metres in 10k. I stopped always to await Giuseppe a young man of 32 and I called Sarah as it was half-way up she called last year to celebrate a best 10k run. The 30 k + (adjusted for climb as 37k was over at O’Cebreiro and passing Michael from NZ and Kari from Carolina with their `pints we headed for the Albergue. The queue was huge and as usual i worried about getting a bed. Some said that it was longer to wait in the queue than to climb the mountain. Eventually I was at the front- Una Cama baya es possible?- Si. I got a bed. Giuseppe got one in the same room and we later drank- the mass and the pilgrims blessing and then dinner with Michael and Kari and Stewart a 20 y old from Oz. This morning my shins hurt like hell. I was slow and suggested to Giuseppe that he went on. I stayed off the Camino to avoid having to lose height(see Pete Hodgson rule 2). I stayed on the road and said a sad goodbye to Giuseppe. I poddled along and eventually came to Carmen- the elderly lady who gives out pancakes and gets cross if you don’t give her money. Buenos Dias Carmen- she looked surprised and I explained I had been here last year. I gave my euro, took my pancake and she blew me a kiss. Arriving in Triacastela I got a bed( not a lower bunk) in a very nice Albergue. had a beer with Juan and Etio( from Spain) and settled down to lunch when Giuseppe in distress arrived. He has major leg problems. I delay lunch. which I’ve now had and wonder what will happen. All is well spiritually. God blesses me with so much- see last email- I get great messages from you all thank you and I continue to pray that God will bless you as he does me. I miss the lot of you and will be home soon when I will see some of you. I never finish my crosswords but I will I’m sure.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Love to you all, God Bless you,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">John</span></div></td> </tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">On <b>Fri, 3/6/11, </b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Dear Each, Forgot to say- O’Cebreiro was where I first met Beatrice and Filomena and Claudio and Matthanais. And that when people are aware of who she is/was they do like my Camino aphorism/motto from Mae West. “If it is worth doing, it is worth doing slowly!”</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Love and God Bless,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">John </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 16.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 16.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Re: Camino break through</span></b></div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 12.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: right; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Saturday, 4 June, 2011 12:36</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 16.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
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</div><table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-table-layout-alt: fixed;"><tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;"> <td style="border: none; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 1051.0pt;" valign="top" width="1051"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Hola Amigos y peregrinos,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;"> I am now in Sarria in the same pension as last year. I may repeat some mistakes </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">but also can repeat good decisions.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Last evening I attended Mass in Triacastela.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Whilst the priest may have had a little showman in him it was a truly wonderful </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">service where each language </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">was represented in readings and the Pilgrims Blessing. It sounds a little trite but </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">the priest ensured that he encompassed the inclusive Christian spirit of the Camino- </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">he did not like the divisions in Christianity and talked of how we are here to find ourselves </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">and through that to find Christ and act as Christ wants us to. His inclusivity was also </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">represented at Communion , as I said No- Anglican- he ignored this so I was able to </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">receive communion with everyone else. I was thrilled to be the reader of the English </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">parts to the Mass- I had to read a passage from the story of the road to Emmaeus. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">The most apt I think of the Gospel messages as we pass along the Camino. I have </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">been lucky to find old friends , some from 10 days ago, some from just 3 days ago. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">What delight we have in friends we have made- just as I delight in your friendships.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Whilst I am not as noisy as I was, preferring to spend much time alone I still have the </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">reputation of last year. I was talking to some South Africans who had seen me greeted </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">by many at the previous coffee stop. The next pilgrim we overtook said ´Hi John´, </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">The South African just asked me - ´Do you know everyone on the Camino?´ </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">I of course replied Yes´. In a funny way as we know ourselves more it is easier to be </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">open to others and therefore to know others. I do still work at trying to remember names.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">I remember you all as I walk and pray. Another pilgrim said ´´we will soon reach Santiago </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">and I am starting to feel sad. I will maybe have some sadness but I still wait to see if my </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">legs will get me there.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Love and God Bless Señors, Señoras y Señoritas.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">John</span></div></td> </tr>
</tbody></table><h1><span lang="EN-US" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Camino: Perceptions, Memories, Dreams , and Reflections</span></h1><div class="MsoDate"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial;">Tuesday, 7 June, 2011 15:43</span></div><table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-table-layout-alt: fixed;"><tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;"> <td style="border: none; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 1051.0pt;" valign="top" width="1051"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Hola Amigos y Peregrinos,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;"> I am now in Arzua, Very close to Santiago and I will take the next 3 days to reach there </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">so that I may refect more and walk slower. The two days prior to today have been long </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">for me 32k+ as I had a strong desire to eat Pulpo at Pulperia Ezekquial. More of that later. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Prompted by my dear wife Caroñlyn and my dear friend Anthony let me describe some of </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">the perceptions of my travels.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">The Atmosphere, meteorologically speaking. I have over the days had wonderful </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">weather in which to walk. Cool in the morning- I do embark before 6.30 most days </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">and watch the sun rise gently as I amble. I had one extremely cold morning as I left </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Villfranca when the wind from the west and down the valley from O’Cebreiro was so </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">cold I donned hat, hoody, coat, scarf and gloves . The hills are so extensive there </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">that I knew it would be hours before the sunlight hit the valley floor. When it did the </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">sky was cloudless coinciding with the steepest of the 30k+ climb up to the ancient </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">stone and thatched village of O’Cebreiro . Arriving with magnificent views of the </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>mountains and hills and valleys of Galicia, the chill wind as we were high and the </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">the sounds of Galician pipes. Entering Galicia I am reminded in some ways of Wales </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">though the landscape is bigger to me, the hills greener and without slate and more rolling.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">The houses are different either very old and in many cases in advanced decay or </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">new with bright red curved tile rooves and perhaps rendered in plaster/concrete </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">and painted in pastel colours. and I notice as all days the variations of temperature- </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">on the last couple of days the mist has been wonderful to walk in though not so good </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">for photos., I also particularly notice the terrain underfoot- I choose which optional </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">route to take based on this. My shins dictate I am afraid that I would opt for an </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">earthen path through an industrial zone rather than a pavement through the woods. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">I have never had such stark options but have looked for earth on which to walk. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">This has often been reddish in colour-though not the deep red of Herefordshire. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">The paths almost always are undulating and often through wooded glades or with </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">trees alongside. One benefit of this is that the birds often fly beside one keeping</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">company and doubtless feeding on the insects disturbed by my boots and the tap </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">tap of my walking poles. The trees are and the foliage also now again like the </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">UK, oak trees and laurels often Today after my stay in Melide are many </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Eucalyptus the scent of which clears my nose and lungs after another night </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">sleeping in very close proximity to 50 or so pilgrims(sometimes emphasize the ....grims.) </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">The sounds of the birds are those often like england, blackbirds and finches and </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">sparrows abound- not so many skylarks- these were more prevalent on the Meseta. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">The foliage includes ferns and often honeysuckle and foxgloves with the occasional </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">very dark coloured squirrels or I thought a mink running about(could have been a </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">beaver running from a dam). I discussed with one of my friends whether </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">St Francis had written his Canticle of nature whilst on the Galician stages of his </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Camino.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Other sounds included a cyclist shouting at himself as he went up the hill, a little like my brother Louis used to shout as he ran uphill. I also today had my prayers and dreams interrupted by a young girl with ipod singing Hey Jude. I think I persuaded her to be quieter.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Other recent perceptions have included the contrast at Portomarin where last year </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">there was a huge lake, now the dam is drained and 80 feet below the road bridge </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">is a river with the old bridge and the remanants of houses of the old village.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">As I passed by Portomarin, Gonzar(where I stayed the night) Palas de Rei and </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Melide I recall my chums from last year Javi(Xabi) and his entourage with whom I drank some beer, Malte, Jan, Erdmuthe, andHerbert who I talked to for the first time with Emma and Norma at Porto Marin, Mona, completing her Camino in Crocs who I came alongside in </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Gonzar and Natascha with her penchant for Sangria, Pulpo and photographing </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">food who we teamed up with in Palas. Tonight I am at the Santiago Apostal </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Albergue where I snapped Filo ´being a real woman´ doing her washing and </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Tomas, Henrik and Rudi who showed me how to operate the washing machines.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Memories have linked me to dreams- Mine seem to come from earlier and earlier. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">2 nights ago they featured a ´Flash Gordon´ sequence which must have come from </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Saturday morning matinees I saw as a 10 year old. These dreams </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">get me to recall early moments in my life - guess I process lots as I walk. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">I concentrate on praying for those I recall whether included in my circulation list or not.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">I reflect on the people I meet the way everyone becomes open to each other. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">I was thrilled as I entered Melide to see Thomas a young, dreadlocked Frenchman with </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">whom I had in Leon listened to a Spanish guitarist. Thomas was outside the pulperia , </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">beamed a smile and hugged my as he said ´my friend´. Because of my lack of French </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">I guess our words to each other before was less than 30 and we had not met since </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Astorga some days and days ago. What is it that makes people so welcoming? </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Other have also been quick to engage with me. Last night I spent eating pulpo with </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">some 9 Italians , two of whom could say more than a couple of English words. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">They decided i was muy sympatico´´ - there becomes a kind way people engage- </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">the longer they have been walking often the more open and friendly they are. why?</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">One other reflection has been that the more ornate and golden the altars in the </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">churches often the less I have enjoyed the masses. Perhaps when there is </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">less ´physical history´ to protect the more the priest engages with us all- I wonder.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">I hope I am changing for the better.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">God Bless you all, I will continue to think and pray. I will be in Santiago on Friday, God willing.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Love,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">your amigo peregrino,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">John</span></div></td> </tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>JOHN OLEY </span></b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">wrote:</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Date: Wednesday, 8 June, 2011, 14:14</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-table-layout-alt: fixed;"><tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;"> <td style="border: none; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 480.0pt;" valign="top" width="480"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Hola peregrinos y amigos,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"> I am now in Pedrouzo, What can I say? Yesterday I learned about me and remembered some more.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">The memories where more charming as I stayed at Albergue Santiago Apostal and recalled the morning, hotter than today when I observed ´cats being herded´ by Marlene from Utah who had talked with me at Portomarin.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Today I walked through ancient oak woods and many plantations of Eucalyptus, and also pine and fir trees. I was feeling rather ill and dreading the return of my earlier sickness but was helped as usual on my way...by an Angel, this one a Catalan called Angel´ who I had met before and despite having to go slow on hills kept my spirits high. I also had a lovely conversation with a young man from Hamburg who is considering reading Social Work at Uni. As you know I and Carolyn between us spent many years in Social Work. One experience of yesterday had left me angry, maybe a cause of my sickness. (Please read Paolo Coelho The Camino if you wish to explore inner and outer demons and dogs).</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Meanwhile back en route the birds continue to accompany me, the roofs of the little and grander houses in the pueblos remind me of Southern England , curved tiles but these are more orange in colour. I continue to drink coffee, but still prefer Italian and French.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">I decided on Sopa Gallego today for lunch as I was feeling very cold. Last year here the temperatures were in the 90s. this year I have seen little sun since entering Galicia. I still delight in seeing old faces and receiving greetings and hugs. The cry of ´John´ as some person I saw days ago spies me in a supermercado lifts me. I am staying at the same place as last year a private hostel where Sarah the Hospitalero and her buddy Jose- Ramon recognize me. The Albergue has much green paint and a little water fountain which produces wonderful restful sound as J-Ramon puts on CDs including Mozart and obviously a little Spanish Guitar!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">With the people as a developer I sometimes feel I could do much to improve their lives and self- images, but I have no contract and my mission is not social/psychological but spiritual and thankful. Maybe I will get the opportunity.. I don’t know if I will arrive Santiago Friday or tomorrow, if the latter I could bus to Finisterra. I see what happens, I am trying to be slower, I am trying to be tolerant and continue to pray for you all. Will I be the same or different. I still thank God for my life and thank you all for the parts you play. I anticipate this will be my last Camino to Santiago but the Camino0 goes on. If I get a chance I will email from the final resting place of the bones of Saint James? When home I will put some more photos on my Facebook site.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Thank you as ever for the messages, the prays, and the love I receive from you.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">God Bless,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">John</span></div></td> </tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Date: Saturday, 11 June, 2011, 9:48</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Hola Peregrinos y amigos.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">I am in Santiago. Since my last note to you many have sent me the most lovely messages THANK YOU. I will reply to you each individually when I get home. I have been so pleased to hear of your lives, successes, and the support you have given me in thought and prayer has been wonderful.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">I left Pedrouzo very early on Thursday and walked at a for me, ferocious pace. The landscape at the start was still old oak woods and then a little farmed fields, There were lots of Eucalyptus trees which give a great freshness as I walked. Then the real signs of ´civilisation´(not sure if that’s the best way to describe the modern world. The Camino runs parallel for a while to the runway of Santiago airport and then rounds the end. I continued to see people I had met and still meet new people. There are a couple of villages between Pedrouzo and Santiago, I was so early that the re was little going on. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">I had decided to reach Santiago that morning so I did. The last few kilometres are through modern outskirts before eventually crossing the road into the older and then the very old city centre. I walked in alone and through the gate/arch next to the Cathedral and then I was here. The large Plaza Obradeiro with the huge Cathedral. This year the square is occupied by many tents as were the squares in Burgos and Leon. Young people are permanently camped there to protest at the national and European economic malaise , they are quite angry about the reactions of the powerful to the difficulties and feel that it is the young, the old, the poor who are bearing the cost of the financial crises across their and other European countries. The square does therefore not feel as peaceful. Nevertheless, I pose for photos to commemorate my arrival. I move quickly to the Office to have a lovely conversation with the girl who gives me my Compostela, the certificate to show I have made it. I then depart for the bus to Finisterra. The 3 hour ride feels most peculiar but the scenery changes as we come close to the sea,. There are little villages and towns, many with houses of granite and tiled red roofs,( the tiling reminds me of Kent). There are again whitewashed and pastel painted houses too. As we reach the seaside there are huge white sanded beaches with no one on them. Arriving in Finisterre I got a room and walked down to the harbour. I found a chum to walk down to the sea. I discovered why the beaches are so empty- paddling did my shins good as this was like putting on an ice-pack.. We then walked up to the lighthouse and I called Sarah from the end of the world. It is true that it looks like the world stops a mile or two away. After a quick beer in the bar there we returned to town- the flow of pilgrims was in the opposite direction. Couples hand in hand and young people all carrying bottles and bottles of wine where intent on watching the sun sink into the sea. It looked that this was a place for romance-(my love is in Evenley) or a place for a young party(I am too old for this). I found a great place for dinner and then was thrilled to meet some of my Mexican friends. The journey the next day by bus was quicker and I was able to go to the pilgrim mass yesterday. The singer again led by the nun with the voice of an angel. The Cathedral was packed again and I look forward to today and tomorrow- Pentecost- when I will be at the mass.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">I had my regulation glass of Rosado to toast Carolyn by the little bar outside the magnificent Hostal de Los Reis Catolicos- Once a refuge now one of the grandest Paradors. My afternoon and evening have been spent meeting, greeting, and hugging many people. I will very much miss the cries of hola John´´ I think people have remembered my name better than I have theirs. I have met many of the people who have helped me physically, emotionally, and spiritually on this way. I have again felt how blessed and lucky I am. I really want to be home but am trying to remain open to being here. Over the last couple of stages my perception was that many people having opened were closing down ands some were I think already home. I have met spouses and partners of some of my friends. These had come to welcome their pilgrims. It has been lovely to see how the can discern the changes in the pilgrims and their delight. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Last night was great chance meetings with the people who have and will continue to be important to me. Especially all my Italian friends, German friends and Canadian friends who suddenly appeared at a very out of the way bar where I was awaiting a restaurant to open. Today will be great too. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">I will write a final note when I get home. And today and tomorrow I will pray again for you all as I enter the Cathedral- Oh yep I did thinks of you as I hugged the apostle.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Love and God Bless,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">John. Soon be home to Carolyn, and will see Sarah at the next weekend for the Fiasco!(some of you know what this means) xoxox</span></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-34321923155218699552011-07-12T00:55:00.000-07:002011-07-12T00:55:38.779-07:00The best cold soup in the whole dang world!<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOOrmFOAq_c5yjEik3mZMENxkjQW2mbw8xnTqEAjlA_Qguqbbe9N4PFkC6AvGAwnhS4c2ciBKHRLZjzNPydTOfQLxb0gJyprwhb75daJPIGujr2l8uDfJ_N-20poZKlmGZ_PdLv8z6Xudr/s1600/Screen+shot+2011-07-09+at+11.39.41.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOOrmFOAq_c5yjEik3mZMENxkjQW2mbw8xnTqEAjlA_Qguqbbe9N4PFkC6AvGAwnhS4c2ciBKHRLZjzNPydTOfQLxb0gJyprwhb75daJPIGujr2l8uDfJ_N-20poZKlmGZ_PdLv8z6Xudr/s320/Screen+shot+2011-07-09+at+11.39.41.png" width="77" /></a><span style="font-size: small;">This recipe for gazpacho soup comes to us from </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Rebekah.</span><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="" name="3099174970820679952"></a><b><span style="font-family: Times;"><a href="http://moratinoslife.blogspot.com/2010/07/coming-soon-to-table-near-you.html"><span style="color: blue;">Coming Soon to a Table Near You!</span></a> </span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">“Today after church we spent a good 20 minutes </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">wading through a pile of perfectly ripe vegetables: </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">peeling, slicing, dicing, and grinding up what could </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">be a fine salad into a superb soup. A soup so excellent </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">and unique it has become a national obsession in Spain:</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;"> Gazpacho. <br />
<br />
Gazpacho is HUGE down in the south of Spain, where </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">every fridge has a big jug of the stuff standing by on the </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">top shelf, should tragedy, stress, hunger, or unexpected </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">company strike. Gazpacho is comfort food, a </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">summertime staple: delicious, nutritious, filling, </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">and easy to make and serve. Every mother and </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">grandmother has her own recipe for "Authentic" </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">gazpacho, and claiming that yours is the best is a </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">great way to start a loud discussion. <br />
<br />
That said, here is the recipe I use, more or less, to make <br />
<br />
<br />
The best Expat Gazpacho in Spain <br />
<br />
4-inch length of bread cut from a long loaf, de-crusted and </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;"> set in a bowl of water to soak.<br />
2 pounds very ripe red tomatoes, deseeded and chopped<br />
2 or 3 green peppers, deseeded and chopped (how many </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;"> depends on how big they are)<br />
1 4-inch cucumber or a couple of pickle-size cukes, </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;"> peeled and chopped<br />
1 medium sweet onion (Spanish or Vidalia) chopped<br />
3 or 4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped.<br />
<br />
Squeeze the water out of the bread. Put the bread together </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">with all the vegetables in a food processor and liquefy the lot. </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">The kitchen will smell divine. (if you remember, reserve a bit of</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;"> chopped pepper, tomato, and onion for garnish later on.) <br />
<br />
Add:<br />
1 teaspoon sugar<br />
1 teaspoon salt<br />
6 tablespoons white wine vinegar<br />
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;"> (MUST-HAVE ingredient, hard to find but worth the search!) <br />
1 cup mild virgin olive oil (drizzle this in slowly at the end to mix well) <br />
<br />
Process until smooth, it may require two batches. </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;"> Stir in 1 cup of cold water. Test for vinegar/salt/sugar balance, </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">then pour it into a big pitcher and refrigerate for several hours. </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">Stir well and check seasoning again before serving in chilled </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">glasses or bowls, with chopped veg on the side as garnish. </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">You can add another cup of water if you prefer yours thinner.<br />
<br />
This makes a good half-gallon of soup. Keep it cold.<br />
<br />
No matter what your mama told you, Gazpacho does NOT </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">have tomato juice, hot pepper flakes or Tobasco sauce in it. </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">You (and your mama) are thinking of a Bloody Mary. </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">Which is not a bad idea, if you made your cocktail before </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times;">you added the extra water... hmmm!".</span></span></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-4813027492575528552011-07-11T00:48:00.000-07:002011-07-11T00:48:25.705-07:00Bulls 10 Runners 0. San Fermin yesterday<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLPi_ws2ml9y46mdcQMGwALuATkQctRpiLOqSEPLVnWpq1S8WfekDu7Z0OsTfa6841x2StZBrtq87sz-rkJj1GtfAuH4N2y6SDQCq9OgumI_yABkwkIrw9EUHg0tW79JmEWAqhYJxhFzPy/s1600/Screen+shot+2011-07-11+at+08.40.13.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLPi_ws2ml9y46mdcQMGwALuATkQctRpiLOqSEPLVnWpq1S8WfekDu7Z0OsTfa6841x2StZBrtq87sz-rkJj1GtfAuH4N2y6SDQCq9OgumI_yABkwkIrw9EUHg0tW79JmEWAqhYJxhFzPy/s320/Screen+shot+2011-07-11+at+08.40.13.png" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #cc0000;">The famous Bull run in Pampalona is not for the faint hearted</span></span><br />
<br />
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<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">PAMPLONA--Half-tonne fighting bulls trampled, dragged, and knocked over runners on a breakneck bull-run in Spain's San Fermin festival Sunday, injuring at least 10 people, officials said. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">Thousands of thrill-seekers packed around six bulls and six steers racing and often skidding through the winding, cobbled streets of the northern Spanish city Pamplona. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">Revellers packed overhanging balconies as the beasts bolted 846.6 metres from a holding pen to the city's bull-fighting ring in a very quick two minutes 29 seconds. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">One runner wearing traditional white, with red handkerchief, sprinted ahead of a pack of three bulls but could not outrun them. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">Knocked over, trapped between two of the beasts, and then kicked by other passing bulls, he was dragged about the length of four bulls and left sprawling in the street. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">Another bull skidded on the cobbles and was hit by another beast tearing around the corner. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">A middle-aged man could be seen cowering on the pavement and squeezed against a wall to avoid the tips of a passing bull's horns. Another fell before the pack and curled up to shield himself from the hooves. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">In all, the Red Cross reported at least 10 injuries including bruises, dislocated joints and head injuries but no gorings in the fourth of eight bull runs that mark this alcohol-fuelled festival that runs to July 14. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">The Sunday bull run at the San Fermin festival draws the largest crowds and organisers blamed the high number of participants, estimated by some media at more than 3,000, for the slips and falls. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">In the most serious injury so far, a 25-year-old Australian man was gored in his right thigh during Friday's bull run after he taunted one of the bulls. The Red Cross said Sunday he was improving. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">A 23-year-old French man was also gored, less seriously, on Saturday. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">Every year between 200 and 300 participants in the run are injured. Most are hurt after falling but some are trampled or gored by the bulls despite increased safety measures. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">The most recent death occurred two years ago when a bull gored a 27-year-old Spaniard to death, piercing his neck, heart and lungs with its horns in front of hordes of tourists. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">The city of some 200,000 residents expects the festival, which runs until Thursday, will lure at least as many tourists as last year when 1.5 million people turned out and hotels reported a 95-percent occupancy rate. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">The action is also followed by millions more on television.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: black; font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;"><br />
Read more: <a href="http://www.canada.com/news/least+people+injured+July+Running+Bulls/5080428/story.html#ixzz1RmS2aUKY"><span style="color: #003399;">http://www.canada.com/news/least+people+injured+July+Running+Bulls/5080428/story.html#ixzz1RmS2aUKY</span></a></span></div> Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-48162991664133439682011-07-09T23:23:00.000-07:002011-07-09T23:23:32.394-07:00The Missing Codex<style>
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<div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 24pt;">Julián Barrio breaks his silence to mourn the loss of the book </span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">The Vatican "shares the sorrow" of Galicia by the disappearance of the codex</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="texto"><span>The Archbishop of Santiago, Julián Barrio, who was traveling in France when the news broke of the disappearance of the Codex Calixtino of the Cathedral of Compostela held a press conference at Madrid airport and gave his first comments about the event. </span></div><div class="texto"><br />
</div><div class="texto"><span>In a sad voice, the archbishop explained that he had kept in touch "at all times" with the vicar and the dean, José Maria Diaz, who told him the developments and progress of the first police investigations into the thief.<span class="google-src-text"></span> Julián Barrio, who until now had been silent on the disappearance of great treasure of the cathedral was due to return to Santiago yesterday.</span></div><div class="texto"><br />
</div><div class="texto"><span> </span></div><div class="texto"><span>Moreover, the disappearance of the Codex has come to the attention of Rome.<span class="google-src-text"> </span><span> </span>Sources of the Pontifical Council of Culture of the Holy See at the Vatican said yesterday that "We share the sorrow of Galicia by the loss of this unique jewel”. "It is no longer its material value, or its religious worth,but its enormous value as a foundational element of European culture." </span></div><div class="texto"><br />
</div><div class="texto"><span>The Holy See added that the volume constitutes an important reference for all of Europe in its crucial role in the promotion of pilgrimages to Santiago and the compilation of different aspects of musical, literary and historical information found within its pages.<span class="google-src-text"> </span></span></div><div class="texto"><br />
</div><div class="texto"><span><span class="google-src-text"> We all pray for</span> "speedy recovery" of the volume. </span></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-21576665655593470262011-07-09T22:27:00.000-07:002011-07-09T22:27:51.958-07:00<style>
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<div class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 20pt;">John Knight completed his first pilgrimage</span></div><div class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 20pt;"> a few years back now. But as he is </span></div><div class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 20pt;">publishing his new book soon ,telling of his </span></div><div class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 20pt;">experiences of pilgrimage, I thought that a </span></div><div class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 20pt;">look at his first diary would be a good opener.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi67DzIvhOjk3n3ud9X24pZ_r8NULTvShs2shHOe4rcb6ByDnp8nqDk3aUPe6PdeMBMcPP6uZ1uQVlJRnCA8HfFcKzwIsJyhNJsjgxCDTq6e5LoYfCbwdHkTTPwrjangFDswVSbxvESmF6O/s1600/new+%252CInward+925.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi67DzIvhOjk3n3ud9X24pZ_r8NULTvShs2shHOe4rcb6ByDnp8nqDk3aUPe6PdeMBMcPP6uZ1uQVlJRnCA8HfFcKzwIsJyhNJsjgxCDTq6e5LoYfCbwdHkTTPwrjangFDswVSbxvESmF6O/s320/new+%252CInward+925.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 20pt;"> </span></div><div class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 20pt;">CAMINO DE SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA</span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: 16pt;">12<sup>TH</sup> May –28<sup>th</sup> May 2007</span></b></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><u>Saturday 12<sup>th</sup> May</u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>We met at St Mary’s, Far Cotton, Northampton on Saturday evening, 12<sup>th</sup> May, for a special Eucharist and Commissioning Service for ‘the twelve Peregrinos’ (Pilgrims) by Bishop Frank.<span> </span>This was followed by a Paella Supper cooked by Ian Holdsworth, Vicar and group Leader, shared together with wives or husbands who were not coming with the group.<span> </span>After the latter left, most of us found places to sleep for what was left of the night in the Vicarage!</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><u>Sunday 13<sup>th</sup> May</u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Our alarms went off at 4am on Sunday morning, followed by a quick breakfast before boarding our Minibus at 5am for Stansted Airport.<span> </span>Our party was made up of Ian & Liz, Matthew, David, Edward, Susan, April, Linda, Jenny and John, Richard and myself.<span> </span>I was the oldest at 71, the youngest in his twenties, and the remainder in their 30’s, 40’s, and 50’s.<span> </span>We were very fortunate to catch our plane.<span> </span>Ten miles from the Airport a car crashed into the central reservation a mile or so ahead of us.<span> </span>We were held up for five minutes before we were able to filter past the wreckage and the two people lying very seriously injured on the roadside.<span> </span>By chance we had just passed an ambulance, and it was able to attend to the accident almost immediately.<span> </span>A short while later the police and fire engines arrived and the whole south-bound M11 Motorway was sealed off!<span> </span>If we hadn’t been so close to the scene, but further back, we would have missed our flight!</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText">We had a two-hour flight with Ryan Air to Vallidolid in Northern Spain, then caught a bus (8 Euros for a three hour ride including reserved seats!) to Leon where we arrived late in the afternoon.<span> </span>Then followed our first ‘walk’ in gentle drizzle [signs of things to come?] to our Albergue for the night – part of a Catholic Nunnery.<span> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText">In Spain, Albergues are the basic pilgrim ‘overnight stops’ – and much more austere than ‘hostals’, or habitaceones (rooms over bars/restaurants/cafes), or 1* hotels.<span> </span>Albergue prices vary from a donation (some suggested 3 Euros) for some Municipal facilities, to a fee of between 3 and 8 Euros a night.<span> </span>Usually this supplied double bunk-type beds with mattress, showers (some only cold water), and toilets.<span> </span><i>Only a few, very few, supplied a blanket and pillow</i>.<span> </span>Usually, to maximise sleeping accommodation, double bunk beds were put together in pairs – so one always had a very near neighbour alongside – who could be male or female.<span> </span>Snoring levels in some dormitories was awesome!<span> </span>House rules included a lock in time of about 10.30 pm – with lights out!<span> </span>Some Albergues provided an in-house Pilgrim Menu (7 or 8 Euros) for the evening meal, and a few also provided, at a small additional cost, a makeshift breakfast in the morning…. If no meals were provided, then there were always bars or restaurants or hotels in the neighbourhood – most of which offered a Pilgrim Menu (three courses with wine and bottled water included) for less than 12 Euros.<span> </span>Almost without exception, we were overwhelmed with both the quantity and quality of the meals we were served.<span> </span>Strangely, although we saw vegetables being grown almost everywhere, they were rarely served with meals – apart from potatoes!<span> </span>Most times – speaking for myself - one course and the pudding would have been more than sufficient.<span> </span>All salad, fish, chicken and pasta-type dishes were superb.<span> </span>Veal and Pork were the most common red meats – always very tender, and usually served with chips.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>After finding beds for the night, we left our bags behind and went to see Leon Cathedral – with <i>the</i> most amazing array of Stained Glass Windows.<span> </span>The Rose Window at the West end, with the sun going down behind it, was quite spectacular, added to which was an unusual and totally unexpected mirror image of it on the massive glass doors leading into the Choir.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>We then went looking for our evening meal and were led, by Ian, by a rather circuitous route to a pub he remembered from a previous visit.<span> </span>Our hostess took us to an Upper Room, which was just large enough to seat the 12 of us!!<span> </span>Literally!<span> </span>The girls bringing our food came to the door, and plates were then passed over our heads and down the table.<span> </span>Very cosy, with lots and lots of laughter.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>When the bread and wine were placed on the table, we asked for God’s blessing on them as at the Last Supper, as well as on our meal, on each other and our forthcoming pilgrimage together – a custom we were to continue each night a group of us gathered for supper.<span> </span>This evening we had the first of our Pilgrim Menus - a three-course meal served with wine and bottled water for roughly 10 Euros each.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span> </span>We finished our meal just in time to get back to the Albergue before lock up time.<span> </span>Some attended the closing service of the day in the Monastery Chapel, and a few felt I had made the right choice by going straight to bed!</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><u>Monday, 14<sup>th</sup> May</u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>At 6.30am the next morning we all gathered outside the Albergue fully kitted out, and had a prayer together before setting out on our Camino journey – 325kms to Santiago de Compostela.<span> </span>(Half way through the day, we passed a sign…333 kms to go!)<span> </span>But for this first day, it was a long hard haul both through, and out of, the City of Leon to head westwards along the Camino trail.<span> </span>Scenery-wise, it was the least inspiring of the whole trip, but it got all our muscles working as we covered about 36kms that first day. During that first day we met at least six people who had started their journey three weeks and more before us.<span> </span>A number, including a young 19 year old girl, had started three weeks before at Roncesvalles – the other side of the Pyrenees in Southern France.<span> </span>One elderly Canadian couple had started over five weeks before from further north in France!<span> </span>Our journey seemed lightweight in comparison, and put things in perspective almost before we had got going. By mid afternoon we stopped at Vilandangos Del Paramo because Linda was feeling quite ill<span> </span>– and so gave her time for tablets to work.<span> </span>So it was quite late in the afternoon when it was decided we <i>would</i> continue on after all, and do the final 7 kms to Hospital de Orbigo – a quite beautiful old town alongside a river, with an amazing footbridge spanning the wide river leading us into the town.<span> </span>We all arrived more dead than alive, only to find one Albergue full, and a second only had three spaces left.<span> </span>(They found a few more when pressure was placed on them later).<span> </span>So some of us then walked (or rather staggered somewhat painfully) quite some distance to see if we could get the Municipal Albergue opened – but the person with the key could not be found.<span> </span>Four of us eventually had to ‘make-do’ (!!) with putting up in the last two rooms in the local hotel at 30 Euros each!!!!<span> </span>A number of others, arriving after our party of 12, had to get taxis to take them on to Astorga because there was literally no ‘room at the Inn’!<span> </span>We all ended a very tiring hot day having a wonderful meal together in a local restaurant.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><u>Tuesday, 15<sup>th</sup> May</u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>The next day we headed out at 6.30am.<span> </span>All the group – apart from myself – stopped for coffee an hour later.<span> </span>I eventually walked on – ‘walked’ being a euphemism for climbing and descending a whole series of long and steep intervening hills until I got to the hill overlooking the ancient city of Astorga.<span> </span>Soon after, the others began to catch up.<span> </span>By now I was regretting not having had something to eat at that earlier stop, and really struggled on the long downhill to the village below, and then the long climb up into Astorga.<span> </span>By now I was walking with Richard who came with me to the first Farmacia (chemist) as my interpreter and then, having reached Astorga, we stopped off at a Tapas Bar and had something fairly substantial to eat.<span> </span>We had a quick look at the Cathedral (from outside), and were bowled over by the sight of Gaudi’s building of the Bishop’s Palace – absolutely palatial, awesome in size, and virtually dwarfing the ancient Cathedral next door.<span> </span>And yet, in another context and setting, it would have been quite exquisite but extravagant beyond all imagination as one person’s home and office – even that of a Bishop!<span> </span>Like Gaudi’s Cathedral in Barcelona, there is nothing really to compare it with.<span> </span>Soon after 2pm, Richard & I headed off on the trail again, catching up with Ian and Liz before we reached Murias de Rechivalho where we were to spend our third night.<span> </span>But there were not enough beds for all of us, so six of the youngest and fittest set off again – having been assured of beds – to the much more (we were to learn next morning!!) upmarket Albergue at Santa Catalina.<span> </span>Meanwhile we set about doing all our washing – the sun being a good hot-drying sun – and then sitting out in the courtyard, with our chatting being refreshed with lots of cold liquids from the bar, writing up of journals being accomplished by some, and the like.<span> </span>The Albergue provided us with both our meal that night, as well as breakfast in the morning – both excellent – with bed and both meals costing us 18 Euros each.<span> </span>And the cherry on the cake, so to speak, was that all our clothes were washed and ready for use again.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><u>Wednesday, 16<sup>th</sup> May</u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>The six of us were lined up outside praying for our new day at 6.30a.m. <span> </span>Today was to be a day of ‘climbing nearly all the way’, in order to get to the top of the first of our Mountain ranges.<span> </span>And every time we dropped down to a river, we knew it was lost ground that had to be made up!<span> </span>After El Ganzo, the climb is steadily upwards, with a final very steep climb to Rabinal del Camino.<span> </span>By this time I had got well ahead of the group, and met with Ian in the forward party.<span> </span>Having told him that one member of the party was really struggling, he went back to help.<span> </span>Meanwhile I had a quick meal, and then continued on the very long and steep climb up to Foncebadon (1500 metres), very near the summit of the range of mountains we were crossing.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>I had also passed the rest of the advance group at Rabanal, and so was the first of the group to arrive at the Albergue at Foncebadon.<span> </span>I got one of the last top bunks that were available.<span> </span>All the rest of our group, when they arrived later that afternoon, had to sleep on rows of mattresses laid down side by side literally in the roof space!<span> </span>On the way up this last climb I met up with a Canadian at one of the wonderful water points/reservoirs provided.<span> </span>Rather than pollute the tank by literally getting into it, I filled my hat with water several times, and poured it all over me to cool off a bit – including my specs which I had overlooked!<span> </span>My new contact, Serge, told me about his mother and father who had cancer, and of his own marriage difficulties, and I promised to pray for his needs on the rest of the Camino.<span> </span>We met up again at the Albergue, and had a further long chat together.<span> </span>He told me that at the beginning of his Camino, he had purposely shaved off all his hair – because his mother was losing her’s through chemotherapy – and how all in the barber-shop had hugged him and blessed him when they discovered why he had done this.<span> </span>He was thrilled to hear how my MBT’s (Masai Barefoot Technology shoes) had given me a new lease of life, and we agreed it was like a miracle that I was now standing on the top of this first mountain range (ahead of the rest of my group!) en route to Santiago!<span> </span>During the rest of my journey, the two of us bumped into each other virtually every day at some point or other, and continued to share together.<span> </span>The next morning he told me that I was one of those who had been snoring – and when I apologised, he said, ‘No, no! Yours was very soporific snoring!<span> </span>Gentle and peaceful.’<span> </span>What a generous French Canadian!</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><u>Thursday, 17<sup>th</sup> May</u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>After a further hours’ climb, we reached Guz de Ferro.<span> </span>At the summit is a Chapel (locked) and a huge pole on a mountain of stones.<span> </span>Every Peregrino is encouraged to bring a stone with them from home, and lay it on the cairn – and to pray for their home community.<span> </span>We took a coloured front page from one of Ian’s special guides that he had given each of us, and after we had all signed it, we pinned it to the pole.<span> </span>The Camino then took us down quite a height before we reached Manjarin, a ruined village with a quite distinct Albergue.<span> </span>Our guidebook simply referred to it as “not to be recommended”. Apart from everything else, it had no running water!<span> </span>It’s owner, Tomas, was an eccentric self-styled Hospital Knight.<span> </span>But it did have a wonderful ‘sello’, or stamp, to put in our camino passport.<span> </span>While we were having this stamp added to our ‘passports’, someone asked where we could find the toilets.<span> </span>The man told us ‘they were burnt down four days ago – just use the bushes like we do.’<span> </span>From here we had another further steep climb up again to a further peak.<span> </span>At this point we had the most phenomenal view around virtually 360 degrees.<span> </span>One of the most wonderful experiences of the journey up and over the mountains – apart from the depth of silence and lack of any human presence as far as the eye can see - was the awe-inspiring display of virtually every spring flower in such rich profusion, and even grander were the massive displays of heathers – with many of the mountain tops just glowing a wonderful deep red.<span> </span>The view down to Ponferrada and all points west – way down below us – was fantastic.<span> </span>Ponferrada reminded me so much of Mutare in Zimbabwe.<span> </span>A city in a bowl surrounded an all sides by a continuous series of mountain ranges.<span> </span>It just left me stunned over and over again as we descended and I kept ‘seeing Mutare below me’, with so many memories flooding back, and I could virtually pinpoint where the Swailes’ lived in the Vumba above and overlooking the city.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-top: 12pt;">The steepness of the descent was awesome – with ankles, knees and hips aching from the sheer pain of continually trying to brake on a path that was nothing but masses of shale and loose stones.<span> </span>These paths led to two accidents.<span> </span>Roger was taking a photograph when he began to fall.<span> </span>To save his camera (his first thought), his hand took a mighty bang.<span> </span>He was to be in pain for the rest of the Camino. <span> </span>I will<span> </span>say more about that later.<span> </span>Then David, on another occasion, also had a fall and smashed his glasses.<span> </span>He eventually had to visit a Farmacia (Chemist) and get some reading glasses off the shelf to enable him to read.<span> </span>Susan also struggled with a painful right knee for much of the trip.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>At El Acebo, still on the way down and very hungry, we discovered a new kind of “pie” (vast in size – about 6 or 7” square and over an inch deep) made with egg and all kinds of delicious things.<span> </span>Heated in a microwave by mine host, they were out of this world!<span> </span>Wow!<span> </span>I wish I had the recipe for them.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>The steep descent continued.<span> </span>At a wonderfully picturesque village, Riego de Ambros, balanced on a tiny slice of almost level ground, the path suddenly took an unexpected and sharp turn right in between two houses….and went virtually straight down for another hour and more to a beautiful little town – Molinaseca – on the banks of the river.<span> </span>It was the hottest day of our journey so far.<span> </span>We sat in the grounds of a lovely café, had our foot-ware off in seconds, and were into the water up to our ankles or calves.<span> </span>The shock was profound, the water seemingly much colder than ice!<span> </span>Our feet, ankles and calves were now painfully numb in seconds.<span> </span>Then came those blissful long iced drinks with our feet soaking up the sunshine and being wonderfully restored in the sun’s hot rays.<span> </span>Finally, however, recognising that the day’s work was still not complete, foot-ware was replaced, bags restored to our backs, walking sticks placed in hand, and we set off on the last 8 kilometres under a blistering hot sun for Ponferrada.<span> </span>A very hot and exhausting two-hour walk followed.<span> </span>By the time I arrived, everything I was wearing was literally ringing wet.<span> </span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Our fifth night was to be spent in a city with a really wonderful Albergue built by the city fathers – for which there was no charge.<span> </span>Just a donation.<span> </span>Unfortunately, despite being so wonderfully equipped in so many ways, there were <i>no blankets or pillows</i>!<span> </span>Another very cold night ahead of some of us – especially me.<span> </span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>One of our party could go no further than Molinaseca, so caught a taxi to Ponferrada and set about finding some more suitable boots.<span> </span>[The next day she travelled on to our next destination by bus to give her badly blistered feet a rest, and to obtain treatment for them during the course of that day.]</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>A couple of hours later, that evening, refreshed by showers, a change of clothing and some refreshing drinks you would have scarcely believed this happy, laughing bunch was the same group - now walking out of the Albergue and into the town looking for a good evening meal and entertainment – who had staggered in from Molinaseca a few hours earlier.<span> </span>We had drinks in a lovely city square waiting for the dinner hour to arrive at our Restaurant of choice – 8.30 pm.<span> </span>A wonderful meal followed, but served so slowly I began to get anxious about getting back before the doors were locked on the Albergue, because I still had to see how much dry clothing I could rustle up to try and keep me from freezing during the night before the lights went out.<span> </span>I had <i>a very</i> cold night!</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Ian had ‘cheered’ us up that evening by telling us that the next day’s walk, before we tackled the next mountain range, was a relatively easy day’s walk across ‘gently undulating hills’.<span> </span>We would not let him off the hook for his description of a day’s walk we were to find extraordinarily exhausting! </b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><u>Friday, 18<sup>th</sup> May</u></b></div><div class="MsoBodyText">The beautiful old city of Ponferrada has ‘an ancient, magnificent, storybook Knights’ Templar Castle’ in process of renovation.<span> </span>And as we set out at 6.30 this morning, Roger was sure we wouldn’t mind a rather longer roundabout route through the city so that we could see something of this magnificent Castle high above the river running below.<span> </span>It was truly magnificent – what we could see of it in the early morning light.<span> </span>April, John & Jenny, and I found ourselves in the fast group of young walkers, and the pace in the long uphill climb through the old city and up into the new modern city, up through the Industrial area, and then further up into the hills beyond, was far too fast for us, and we were to pay dearly for it later.<span> </span>But we kept up with them.<span> </span>It was in one of the outlying towns, Columbrianos, that Richard was shocked to realise he had left his money belt, with passport inside, hanging on a hook in the shower cubicle he had used at our overnight stop.<span> </span>What a potential disaster!<span> </span>We pooled some change between us, and Richard headed towards the local High Street to find a local bus back to Ponferrada.<span> </span>Meanwhile Roger sent a text message back to Liz and Ian with the news, in the hopes that they might still be in the city.<span> </span>Meanwhile the rest of us continued, and then finally paused for a very nice breakfast in the ancient village of Fuentas Nuevas.<span> </span></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText">It was going to be another scorching hot day, and my clean new clothes were already soaking wet.<span> </span>Nothing to be done about it, as my other clothes from yesterday (washed before we went out for the evening last night) were still hanging out to dry off completely on the back of my pack!</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>We reached Cacebelos about 11, bought some supplies for a picnic lunch, had a drink in a local bar, and headed out of this ancient old town across the river Cua and then up an endlessly long two-kilometre climb…and <i>very</i> hot!<span> </span>Near the top of the hill, still running alongside the main road were a few buildings, a little green, and a fountain for drawing water.<span> </span>In no time at all we were lying under the trees on the cool grass in our bare feet.<span> </span>Lovely rolls were put together from the ingredients that had been bought, followed by fruit – the region is famous for its wine and fruit.<span> </span>For the rest of our walk that day we would walk past miles of vineyards, all growing on very steep slopes.<span> </span>With our water bottles topped up again, we headed further up into the hills in the exhausting heat of the midday sun.<span> </span>Although we could eventually see Villafranca Del Bierzo way off and up to the left of us, we continued to circle round the hills….Ian’s ‘gently undulating’ walk became a whole series of (in our hazy state, I think we counted at least eight) exceedingly steep hills to be climbed.<span> </span>They were of about the same gradient as the famous Porlock Hill in Somerset – and about as long – followed by an equally steep downhill……… then uphill again….and so on almost (seemingly) ad infinitum.<span> </span>At the top of each rise we expected to see Villafranca in front of us, only to be disappointed to see yet another hill at least to be climbed…<span> </span>When we finally rolled up to the Albergue in Villafranca we were virtually on our knees.<span> </span>But what a welcome sight!<span> </span>We found it hard to believe<span> </span>we were presumed to have only covered just over 15 miles that day.<span> </span>But what with the pace that was too fast for us at the beginning of the day – then all the steep roller-coaster hills at the end – not forgetting the extreme heat – it really did knock the stuffing out of us.<span> </span>But our growing fitness was beginning to tell.<span> </span>After a shower, washing and hanging out of clothes, and yet another drink…we felt like new again.<span> </span>Nearly three hours later, we were able to welcome Ian, Liz and Richard back with the group again.<span> </span>Ian and Liz had received Roger’s text message when they were well on their way out of Ponferrada.<span> </span>Liz walked all the way back to the Albergue, and found Richard’s money belt, with passport, on a hook just outside the shower cubicle – where someone had obviously moved it when they came to use the shower.<span> </span>What a relief.<span> </span>Thank you God!<span> </span>Somehow Ian, Liz and Richard then found each other, and set off once more for Villafranca.<span> </span>They, too, were somewhat exhausted at the end of their day!</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>This Albergue definitely deserves a longer description.<span> </span>I took a whole series of photographs to try and show something of what goes on in such a place.<span> </span>The entry hall of this ancient building was used as the Café Bar, booking office, and place for the sale of a multitude of requirements etc.<span> </span>That led out to a courtyard.<span> </span>Off the courtyard, were a series of dormitories leading off the courtyard, and all under one roof.<span> </span>Our Dormitory, for instance, was crammed with about 30 double bunk beds – virtually no space between them.<span> </span>At one end, there were two ledges on which mattresses had been placed. My top bunk bed was next to one of these, and my neighbour on the mattress was a young South Korean girl.<span> </span>Alongside her bed was a three foot high door leading into the rest of the eaves of the roof.<span> </span>Inside were four more mattresses – then a similar doorway into the next section of the roof, and yet more mattresses on the loft floor.<span> </span>And then to cap it all, behind the heads of our beds the roof came down to meet a ledge at the level of my top bunk.<span> </span>The ledge was three foot wide, and mattresses were laid end to end down the whole length of the dormitory.<span> </span>The latecomers who used these, had to climb up and slide on to their mattresses behind our heads – there was no space above them to allow them to turn over!!!<span> </span>The fire hazards were just too awful to think about.<span> </span>No laws seemed to govern such things in Spanish Europe!<span> </span>So much for European legislation.<span> </span>Showers and toilets – there were two sets – were communal; one with hot and cold water, the other only with cold!<span> </span>In the courtyard were a few benches and tables for people to sit at, and the drying area for clothes was off to one side of the dormitory block.<span> </span>Close alongside was a large Church, most of it very simple and great for reflection and prayer.<span> </span>It was built in memory of the local saint who had lived there in the Middle Ages.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>The town is very old and quaint – roads all too narrow for two-way traffic.<span> </span>A couple of large open squares had a whole range of shops and wonderful pavement cafes.<span> </span>We never did get together to meet as a group for a meal that night.<span> </span>One group went off having decided to buy food and bring it back to the Alberge to eat so as to have an early night – but were so smitten by a pavement café/bar that they sat down there and then to eat a pilgrim meal.<span> </span>I was in the Church praying, and intended to join the other group (who had gone off to Mass in another Church) for a later meal.<span> </span>Liz, realising where I was, joined me and we then went down into the town to try and find where ‘our’ group was at Church.<span> </span>We couldn’t find them, but bumped into the supposed ‘shopping group’ eating their meal instead.<span> </span>So we got a table near them and I started my meal, with Liz deciding to wait until the others joined us!<span> </span>Half way through my meal, Liz got a text message asking her where she was, because the other group were already in a restaurant in another square – and they had already ordered for her!<span> </span>So off she went.<span> </span>John and Jenny from the other party had already finished their meal – the others had already left to visit a chemist to see what could be done for Richard’s very swollen right hand – and came and joined me and had their after dinner cup of coffee.<span> </span>Later we were to discover that the Chemist had sent Roger to the doctor, and the doctor insisted he had to go to Hospital to have xrays done and receive attention.<span> </span>It now being late – and realising the Albergue would be locked up when they got back - one of the staff took pity on Roger and showed them where they could get in under the fence when they did return!<span> </span>So a taxi took Roger and minder virtually all the way to Ponferrada, where we had started the day!<span> </span>There, two broken bones were noted, and Roger’s lower right arm and hand put in plaster.<span> </span>They arrived back at the Albergue at about 2am, crawled in under the fence, and so to bed.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><h1>Saturday, 19<sup>th</sup> May</h1><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Today we were to climb to the top of the second range of mountains.<span> </span>Ian had arranged for all our bags to be carried by a vehicle to O Cebreiro – our planned stop for the night close to the top of the mountains.<span> </span>Only Edward, our very fit and (recently) regular rugby player – who was also preparing to run a marathon when he got back to England – decided to carry his bag all the way.<span> </span>It was so heavy I could barely lift it off the ground, let alone try and get it up on my back!<span> </span>Only recently Edward had been seriously injured at rugby with a broken bone in his neck, and had to have major surgery.<span> </span>He was still not able to turn his head more than about 15 degrees in each direction – but nothing was going to stop him from undertaking the Camino, or prepare for a marathon when he got home.<span> </span>And then, because he would not be allowed to play rugby again, he had been taking examinations so that he could at least referee rugby matches in the future.<span> </span>Edward was a Roman Catholic, and a lawyer by profession.<span> </span>He was always a laugh a minute at every gathering.<span> </span>He had brought all his Spanish books with him (partly why his bag was so heavy), and was determined to master the language by the end of our trip.<span> </span>He was that sort of a guy with an amazing sense of humour.<span> </span>It was always a great encouragement to have him around, and he always showed such interest in everyone around him.<span> </span>Despite carrying this enormous bag – and we were <i>without bags </i>– he was still in the leading group to reach our destination in the late afternoon.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>And what a day it was…twenty miles of uphill work, with the last four miles very steep indeed.<span> </span>After our midmorning break for a meal, we all began to lose touch with one another, with each person or group of persons simply travelling at the speed that they could manage.<span> </span>I met up with the South Korean girl twice in the early part of the day – the one who slept on the platform near my bed.<span> </span>She had recently completed a Social Welfare degree, and was now doing something she had longed to do ever since she had become a Christian – to walk the Camino to Santiago.<span> </span>She lived near Seoul, and would be returning there to start work.<span> </span>What I found really humorous was the number of ardent young men who would race past people like myself and then, because they kept stopping for refreshment, would have to find themselves having to pass me yet again.<span> </span>One guy did this three times to me today, and then the 4<sup>th</sup> time we met, he was clearly puffed out having just completed the steepest part of the climb – and very near the summit – only to find me just finishing my drink at the local bar.<span> </span>He clearly could not believe his eyes that I had got there before him!<span> </span>The steepest part of the climb started at Las Herrerias – and was in two parts.<span> </span>The first took one up to La Faba.<span> </span>Somehow I missed the turn on the trail, and took the very much longer route that was marked for cyclists.<span> </span>It too was so steep that I virtually kept up with a bunch of cyclists most of the way – with all of us continually stepping under fountains of water flowing downhill on to the roadside – and helping us to cool off.<span> </span>I reached La Faba just as our young fast group were finishing their drinks.<span> </span>Then came the shock – an even more strenuous climb up a steep path over shale and loose rocks.<span> </span>But very soon all sense of direction and distance was lost as I walked into dense cloud, which took me the rest of the way to O Cebreiro – a tiny village nestled against the very top of the range.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>The Albergue was still in the process of being rebuilt, but accommodation was provided in a couple of ‘dormitory’ Portacabins, and two others equipped with showers and toilets – really gruesome inside.<span> </span>There were not enough beds for all of us, so all those who arrived later were found accommodation at Hospital de Condesa.<span> </span>Although it was very late in the day, Ian & Liz walked on to it, while the others had a taxi arranged for them to take them down.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Those of us who were left, spent the evening in the local bar/pub – the warmest place, and to which our packs had been delivered earlier in the day.<span> </span>It also provided a very good meal.<span> </span>Because one set of clothing was dripping wet from the day’s climb, I only had one set to try and keep me warm overnight – again no blankets supplied.<span> </span>I decided to have a Martini to warm me up.<span> </span>On asking for one, the grandmother who was helping her daughter got down a large glass and just started pouring.<span> </span>When I realised the glass was already half full, I asked her to stop and top it up with a lemon drink.<span> </span>She poured in two drops and stopped!<span> </span>She was amazed that I wanted it diluted further.<span> </span>It still cost less than a tot of<span> </span>Martini<span> </span>in England.<span> </span>Later in the evening I decided to have another to warm me up for the night.<span> </span>This time the daughter poured it – using just the same quantities!<span> </span>We then had to walk back through dense mist to our portacabin.<span> </span>I did sleep better despite the cold.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><u>Sunday, 20th May</u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>I was the first up in the morning and got a hot shower – bliss.<span> </span>Outside the cloud was right down over us – and it was wet!<span> </span>We had some difficulty finding our way out of the village – and made a couple of false starts in different directions before we were eventually able to find the trail.<span> </span>For much of the morning we remained in the clouds – sometimes so dense one could not see a person ten feet ahead.<span> </span>Although we dropped down quite a bit to start, we had one further extremely steep climb before the descent proper started.<span> </span>A couple of hours later we reached the Albergue where the others had stayed.<span> </span>Most of them were still there.<span> </span>The rest of our group joined them for breakfast.<span> </span>I decided to carry on rather than get too cold – my clothes were already wet through with perspiration – and yesterday’s wet clothes were pinned to the back of my pack but getting no drier under the pack’s waterproof covering.<span> </span>What followed was a very steep and rapid descent all the way down to Triacastela, which I reached just before 1pm.<span> </span>The local bar was cooking pasta for lunch.<span> </span>It was absolutely delicious, and wonderfully filling.<span> </span>Within an hour or two, most of the others had joined us.<span> </span>Two decided to stay there for the night.<span> </span>The rest of us decided to continue on to Samos – a slightly longer alternative route to Sarria – but one which would give us the chance of seeing a vast Benedictine Monastery in Samos where we intended to spend the night.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Most of this part of the walk was through wonderful woods with a strongly running river down below us, occasionally with some lovely waterfalls.<span> </span>For the last part of this walk, Ian and I then followed the road and had a good and profitable (?) time putting the Church of England (and Peterborough Diocese especially) to rights.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>As virtually everything I had was now wet, I decided to pay for a habitaceones above the local bar.<span> </span>Actually a very nice double bedroom en suite.<span> </span>It had radiators in both the bedroom and bathroom.<span> </span>So I turned them up to maximum and virtually dried the set of clothing from yesterday while I showered and re sorted everything in my bag.<span> </span>The clothes from today had been thoroughly washed in the shower, and they now took the place of the others on the heaters.<span> </span>The other nine in our party were staying in the Albergue – part of the Benedictine Monastery – immediately across the road from me.<span> </span>We all met in the bar where I was staying for drinks, and then went on a tour of the immense Monastery – all conducted in Spanish!!<span> </span>The place was inhabited by less than a dozen monks, and clearly large parts of the monastery were not in use!!<span> </span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>We then returned to <i>my </i>pub, where Liz had previously booked a table for the eleven of our group.<span> </span>This was a special occasion – Ian’s 55<sup>th</sup> Birthday.<span> </span>At the end of the meal, instead of individual puddings, a large Santiago Flan was brought in with candles burning and we all sang happy birthday – with the rest of the pilgrims in the Dining Room joining in lustily, and Ian trying to hide under his jacket!<span> </span>A wonderful evening had by all.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>When I returned to my room, the clothes on the heaters had dried.<span> </span>So I washed the other set properly, and hung them over the radiators to dry overnight.<span> </span>I had generously offered to share my vast double bed with anyone else who wanted these special facilities – but perhaps with hindsight it was a good thing no one took up the offer as the bed and mattress were so ancient that I spent the night in the trough in the middle of the bed!<span> </span>I was to hear later that all those at the Albergue had had a terrible night – not only cold, but everyone was being bitten!!!<span> </span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><u>Monday, 21st May</u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>They had a fairly sleepless night!<span> </span>They were so glad to get out of the place, they were on their way soon after 6am.<span> </span>I, however, slept on blissfully ‘til 8am, dressed in nice clean (warm) clothes and had a leisurely breakfast downstairs.<span> </span>Then I packed the other nice clean clothes, and finally hit the road soon after 9am.<span> </span>As I did, I met two of our ladies who had decided to travel to Sarria by bus – but missed it - and had come back to the bar to order a taxi.<span> </span>This was to be our ‘rest’ day with the shortest of walks - 13kms.<span> </span>Apart from a few steep hills, it was a lovely walk largely following a river valley – very beautiful.<span> </span>The only downside was that it rained gently most of the way!<span> </span>But I thoroughly enjoyed the walk on my own.<span> </span>Just before Sarria, where my path met the direct route from Triacastela to Sarria, I saw Richard and Ursula (who had stayed at Triacastela the previous night) just ahead of me.<span> </span>Ursula was a lass from Germany who had spent a lot of time with our group for several days now – and she and Richard were hitting it off well.<span> </span>So I caught up with them and another young London guy travelling with them, and we walked into Sarria together and helped each other find somewhere to stay for the night.<span> </span>I got the last bed in a privately owned Auberge in a dormitory full of a large French group.<span> </span>Very modern building, excellent facilities – but still no blankets.<span> </span>But the beds did have a thing rather like a very thin duvet to cover and protect the mattress.<span> </span>It gave me a little more protection that night.<span> </span>But here we had a whole half day to look around this ancient city, buy additional groceries to put in our bags to keep us going on what would be a very long haul the next day.<span> </span>My wet clothes of the day dried out on the radiator in our dormitory.<span> </span>We were able to have both lunch and dinner together in different restaurants – all on the same day.<span> </span>We agreed we needed an early start the next day if we were to get as far as Hospital de la Cruz!</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><u>Tuesday, 22nd May</u></b></div><div class="MsoBodyText">I woke with a start, realising it was full daylight outside.<span> </span>It was just after 7.30am and clearly no one in this French group had considered getting up so early!<span> </span>The rest of my group had already been an hour on the road!<span> </span>By 8am I was on my way out of the city – a day of interminably long climbs, many very steep, followed by quick descents into the next valley to cross a river, then up again.<span> </span>I soon caught up, and overtook Richard and Ursula when they stopped at a local bar for breakfast.<span> </span>I passed Linda doctoring her feet a few miles on, and then at lunch time caught up with April, John & Jenny as they turned off the path for a picnic – and I joined them.<span> </span>At this stage we were looking down on Portomarin and the large reservoir around it.<span> </span>They were trying to make up their minds whether or not they would stay at Portomarin that night.<span> </span>I had already decided I was determined to make it as far as Hospital de la Cruz.<span> </span>So I said farewell and moved on.<span> </span>From Portomarin onwards was one of the toughest stretches for me – endlessly long uphill climbs, most of them just too steep to get any kind of rhythm going.<span> </span>I was more than glad to catch up with Liz and Ian at Toxibo – and we could now encourage one another along.<span> </span>It was very hot, and water points few and far between.<span> </span>Not surprisingly all my clothes were sodden with perspiration, and it sure was hot.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>We finally made it – 36 kms later - to Hospital de la Cruz about 4pm, only to find that the Albergue had clearly been rebuilt, but was not yet open for business.<span> </span>Fortunately we went back the few yards to the Bar el Labrador that we had just passed, and they had a few vacancies – some at 8 Euros a night, the rest at 30 Euros a night.<span> </span>I got the last 8 euro one – which was a tiny room below ground with two double-bunk beds (no windows) and quite a reasonable shower/toilet next door.<span> </span>Liz and Ian had to put up with a 30 Euro suite!<span> </span>After showering and washing my clothes and hanging them out to dry, I went upstairs to find a cool drink.<span> </span>Eventually I started chatting with Louisa, a young lady from Denmark.<span> </span>She had done anthropology at University, and had been on a number of visits to South America working with the under privileged.<span> </span>She was very excited when I told her about the Kuhla Sizwe programme Peter was operating with ostriches and chickens in Zimbabwe, South Africa and Mozambique.<span> </span>I promised to let her have more details of the programme when I returned home, and she asked if she could be put in touch with Peter.<span> </span>I said I was sure that would be possible.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Ian and Liz arrived in the midst of this, and after drinks, we all agreed to share the Pilgrim Menu together.<span> </span>The rest of our group?<span> </span>We later discovered the four faster ones were just ahead of us; April, John & Jenny had actually got as far as Gonzar – three kms short of where we were - and Richard, Ursula and Linda had stopped at Portomarin.<span> </span>My most embarrassing moment - later the next day – was when I discovered that my meal had not been paid for.<span> </span>(I had presumed, because no one asked me for it, that Ian or Liz had paid for me — as we often did on such occasions - and then we would square up with one another the next day).<span> </span>Later in the trip, when I met up with her again, I asked Louisa to write an apologetic note for me in Spanish, in which I enclosed a 10 Euro note and we posted it off to Bar el Labrador!</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><u>Wednesday, 23<sup>rd</sup> May</u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Soon after 6.30am, Liz, Ian & I were on our way again – this time determined to make it as far as Melide, about 30 kms.<span> </span>We stopped at Ventas de Naron for our breakfast (toast, mermelade (jam!) and fresh orange juice).<span> </span>At mid morning, just as we were coming in to Palas de Rei (The King’s Palace!), there was a really super looking Albergue, with a very fine restaurant attached and many other facilities.<span> </span>We stopped for refreshments.<span> </span>Just as we were about to finish, Louisa<span> </span>walked in, and shared a drink with us.<span> </span>Louisa asked if we would mind her going ahead, because she preferred to walk much faster. <span> </span>But somehow or other we got ahead of her soon after leaving Palas de Rei.<span> </span>She was to arrive in our Dormitory at Melide about an hour after us!<span> </span>But by the time we got to Melide, Liz and I were on our last legs – and still had nearly 2 kms to go.<span> </span>Fortunately I remembered that I had some cheese squares in my bag, and that gave us a slight boost.<span> </span>All I wanted to do as we reached the town was to stop and get a meal – but Ian insisted we must get a place in the Albergue first.<span> </span>I didn’t think I could take another step – but half an hour later we were booked in.<span> </span>Then we went back into town to get a meal.<span> </span>After Ian and Liz left me to go window shopping, I realised that not only were the clothes I was wearing soaked through, but the one’s I had washed the previous night were also not dry……and yet again, this Albergue did not supply a blanket.<span> </span>I would have nothing to keep me warm that night So on the way back to the Albergue I found an upmarket habataceones which had just one room left at 30 Euros.<span> </span>I took it, and went and fetched my gear from the Albergue.<span> </span>Then I discovered the heaters didn’t work.<span> </span>Somehow I explained to the owner that I was freezing cold, and could they put the heaters on in my room.<span> </span>They finally understood, and I immediately set out to dry yesterday’s washing, while I washed the clothes I was in.<span> </span>Fortunately, by supper time, the first set was dry.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>When I went downstairs, I discovered that Roger and Susan had also taken rooms in the same place.<span> </span>All the group in Melide came to our upmarket restaurant for a shared meal together.<span> </span>It was so proper, that when I asked for a banana for my sweet, it arrived on a plate with a miniature set of knife and fork to eat it with.<span> </span>But the pilgrim meal still only cost 10 euros inclusive of wine and bottled water!</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>I had set my sights on making it to Arca by the next night – giving me 42kms to cover in the day.<span> </span>By the time I went to bed, all my clothes were dry, and I had virtually everything packed for an early start.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><u>Thursday 24<sup>th</sup> May</u></b></div><div class="MsoBodyText">I woke soon after 5am and left my building at about 5.45 – but it was too dark for me to find the trail signs.<span> </span>So I went along to the Albergue and sat on the bench outside the front door.<span> </span>At 6am a group of three Germans – well-known for their early starts – came out.<span> </span>They had a large and powerful torch, so I set off with them and remained with them for the next half hour until it was light enough to see by.<span> </span>Gradually I got ahead of them.<span> </span>The road was like a switchback – steep up and then steep down – over and over again.<span> </span>Within an hour my freshly washed and dried clothes were ringing wet.<span> </span>But at least I knew I had another dry set for the final walk into Santiago the next day!<span> </span>I made good time (15kms) to Arzua, and had a very nice breakfast at a restaurant on the way into the town.<span> </span>My guidebook, clearly expecting Arzua to Arca would be a day’s walk described it as “the longest day and rather up and down”.<span> </span>They could say that again – and I had already done 15 kms.<span> </span>I got to Calzada in time for an early lunch – with calves, ankles, feet and hips really painful.<span> </span>I decided what was needed was a good lunch and a long rest to allow my body to recover before the final stretch.<span> </span>I had been there nearly half an hour when our ‘fast young group of four’ (Richard, Edward, David and Susan) arrived.<span> </span>They watched me eating, but decided that all they wanted was a beer.<span> </span>They said that their target was Alto de Santo Irene, 3 kms short of Arca.<span> </span>As we were talking, Loiusa walked in and joined us.<span> </span>Shortly afterwards, the four were off again.<span> </span>We were to learn later that they regretted not having eaten something – because soon there was nowhere else to stop.<span> </span>They found that there were no Albergues operating in Brea or Alto de Santo Irene and by this time were dead on their feet.<span> </span>They actually got into Arca after us and stayed at a Pensione.<span> </span>We must have passed them while they were looking for places to stay at Brea and Alto de Santo Irene!</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Meanwhile Louisa also decided to have a proper meal, and I left her there knowing that she would walk much faster than me, and suggested she pick me up and carry me into Arca when I was likely to be dead on my feet!<span> </span>She finally caught me up about 6 kms from Arca, and we were able to encourage one another along as we became more and more exhausted.<span> </span>We finally booked into the Arca Auberge soon after 3.30pm.<span> </span>Again, no blankets.<span> </span>Louisa’s shock was that there were no curtains on the shower cubicles, nor any way of hanging anything in front.<span> </span>Having met up with my Canadian friend Serge again, we nobly offered to stand outside her shower to protect her from the gaze of the idle mob!<span> </span>Still not satisfied, somehow or other she found a shower elsewhere in the building that did provide some privacy!</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>At 6pm Liz and Ian arrived, also totally shattered.<span> </span>We fed them on wine and olives (not my choice), and then encouraged them to come out and share a meal with us further up the road.<span> </span>The five of us had a great meal together – but one that also caused me great embarrassment.<span> </span>A young Spanish waitress kept coming past our table and putting her arm on my shoulder.<span> </span>When we came to the sweet course, we were told we could also choose anything from the bakery next door.<span> </span>Liz and I went to choose, and the girl obviously took enormous delight in getting me out there, but I managed to keep Liz between us.<span> </span>Later she came back and asked me to come to the bakery again.<span> </span>When I said I had had more than sufficient to eat, she made a long impassioned speech to me with an arm draped round my shoulder.<span> </span>When we asked Louisa later what the girl had been saying, she said she couldn’t possibly repeat it all.<span> </span>Needless to say there were lots of ‘blown’ kisses flying my way from behind the bar as we left – with everyone in fits of laughter.<span> </span>And so back to the Albergue to a very cold bed with no blanket.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><u>Friday, 25<sup>th</sup> May</u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Under 25kms to go to the Camino journey’s end at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela!<span> </span>I was up, ready and waiting at 6am, but my two companions – the three of us (Serge, Louisa & I) had decided to complete this stretch together – overslept slightly, but were on our way about 6.45am.<span> </span>I was so grateful for their support and encouragement.<span> </span>The long, long climb to Monte del Grozo I found very tiring indeed after yesterday’s marathon effort.<span> </span>Almost all 16 kms seemed to be uphill with the occasional short down slope in between.<span> </span>We had a good breakfast stop at Labacolla – where Liz and Ian arrived shortly after us.<span> </span>They had already decided that they were only going to go as far as Monte del Grozo that day, and then wait for all the rest to catch up tomorrow.<span> </span>Meanwhile we pushed on.<span> </span>At San Marcos we were tricked off the trail by a sign that advertised a good bar just 200 metres off the trail.<span> </span>It turned out to be considerably more than that.<span> </span>But at least we got another drink, and something to eat.<span> </span>My left heal was hurting me a lot – a day later I discovered a blood blister, and the only one I was to get on the whole journey, praise the Lord!</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Having finally reached Monte del Grozo, we started heading down to the modern city of Santiago that we could see below us. But once in the city, the road seemed to lead ever upward again, over a hill, then down before heading up again to the<span> </span>next rise – with the old city just coming into sight.<span> </span>Thinking we were virtually there, we then saw a small sign on a lamppost – 2.6kms to the Cathedral.<span> </span>What a severe let down.<span> </span>Entering the old city on very narrow pavements, Louisa and I linked arms and decided no one was going to make us get off the pavement, and kept each other going all the way to the Cathedral doors. I realised as we walked along together that there was something significant in our linking up together.<span> </span>As I said to her, our combined birthdays equalled exactly one hundred, and that we were about to enter the Cathedral at the end of a Camino offering to God our 100 years’ of shared experiences as we looked to Him for what He had in store for us in our separate journeys in the future.<span> </span>As we entered – right on 12 midday – there was much hugging and kissing between the three of us at having accomplished this section of our pilgrimage together.<span> </span>The Pilgrim daily mass was just beginning, and they were reading out the numbers of people who had arrived from each of so many different countries from around the world in the previous 24 hours.<span> </span>There were no seats available.<span> </span>I couldn’t stand much longer, so slumped down on the ice-cold floor in my very wet clothes, and only got up when Louisa, Serge and I went forward to receive Communion.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>After the service the three of us did all the things pilgrims are expected to do.<span> </span>We went up behind the high altar, and climbed the steps to hug St. James, then down into the Crypt to see the gold box that is presumed to contain his bones, then out to the front of the Cathedral to have our photographs taken.<span> </span>The next urgent stop was a satisfying meal, followed by a visit to the Pilgrim office to get our pilgrim passports verified, and so issued with our certificates for completing the requirements of a Camino.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>I had only booked in at a hostal/hotel above a bar for Saturday and Sunday night.<span> </span>So not wanting to leave this guy who spoke no Spanish to sort himself out, Louisa and Serge took me to where I was to stay on Saturday night.<span> </span>They had no rooms available for Friday, but with Louisa’s help, they phoned round similar establishments, but could only find one room for 40 Euros.<span> </span>I agreed to take that, and my minders took me to the place, ensured that I got the room, and left me safely settled in it.<span> </span>What a team we had made, and they kept saying that we couldn’t have had a nicer group to end the pilgrimage.<span> </span>They then moved on to hotels they had previously booked..<span> </span>We were all to meet briefly again in the Cathedral the next day after the pilgrim mass for some fond farewells.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>The ‘four faster walkers’ overslept that morning, and only arrived at the Cathedral a couple of hours after us.<span> </span>Apparently there used to be a custom that crowned as ‘king’ the first person of a group to either see or reach the Cathedral first.<span> </span>So I was duly acclaimed.<span> </span>The other seven in our party arrived over a period of time the next day.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>After Louisa and Serge had left, I showered, and then washed as much of my clothing as possible.<span> </span>Then I went out and visited a supermarket I had seen on the way in, and bought enough food to provide myself with supper for that evening, and for my breakfasts and lunches until Monday morning.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>I then returned to my hotel and had that supper in solitary state.<span> </span>Thinking I would have an early night, I was in bed by eight.<span> </span>By ten I still couldn’t sleep – too excited perhaps? – so got up, got dressed again and went down to the bar next door and had a drink to watch the world go by.<span> </span>And what a surprise that was.<span> </span>Young Mum’s and grannies coming in with children and having ice creams, other families sitting around, chatting and watching the TV; and a never ending stream of people passing the window clearly still on their way home, or going out to eat.<span> </span>The night was clearly still young.<span> </span>My bar was clearly a family type one, and they began to shut up soon after 11 – so I too called it a day.<span> </span>The only failure of the evening was that despite constant trying, the ‘phone system just did not connect with the UK, and so was unable to let Jill know I had arrived.<span> </span>It was only later I discovered it wouldn’t have mattered anyway, as Jill was out having dinner with Heather and Malcolm.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><u>Saturday 26<sup>th</sup> May</u></b></div><div class="MsoBodyText">It was lovely to lie in on Saturday morning.<span> </span>No more regimented starts at 6.30….no more daily treks to be undertaken on foot.<span> </span>All had been accomplished at midday yesterday.<span> </span>I had a quiet breakfast in my room, packed up my gear and finally wandered off to the Suso Hotel (only a stone’s throw from the Cathedral in the midst of a vast array of ‘tourist-type’ shops) I had booked for Saturday and Sunday night.<span> </span>They were able to give me my key when I arrived soon after 10.30am.<span> </span>My room was the tiniest en suite single bedroom I had ever seen.<span> </span>The bed, no more than 6ft long was tight against the walls at each end.<span> </span>The passage between the bed on one side, and small wardrobe and door on the other was just under 3ft.<span> </span>Just alongside the foot of the bed was access to the tiniest area possible that included a mini shower, toilet and wash basin – and all of it absolutely immaculate.<span> </span>And it cost me 20 euros a night.<span> </span>The staff in the bar below were all so nice and helpful.<span> </span>And although the bar was shut to the public on Sunday, we were always able to get whatever we wanted to eat and drink through a side entrance into the bar where one or two of the staff were available when needed.</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText">At 11.30 I wandered into the Cathedral to get a seat for the Pilgrim service.<span> </span>There great re-unions took place with all the others who had arrived, together with the chance for a further moving farewell with Serge and Louisa who would soon be going home to Canada and Denmark respectively.</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText">Afterwards I went shopping and bought myself a few small mementoes and a T Shirt as a reminder of the Camino and, most importantly, a beautiful shell pendant with ear rings to match for Jill – her one special request after admiring the one Ian had brought home for Liz on a previous occasion.<span> </span>(The shell is the sign associated with St James and the Camino to Santiago de Compostela).</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText">That evening eleven of our party met for dinner together – another wonderful Pilgrim Menu with the usual three courses inclusive of wine and bottled water.<span> </span>No one had been able to make contact with Richard, although it was known he had arrived in the city.</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><u>Sunday, 27<sup>th</sup> May</u><span> </span><u><span style="color: red;">PENTECOST SUNDAY</span></u></div><div class="MsoBodyText">Liz had found a public phone in the street that did work, so I phoned Jill to tell her where I was.<span> </span>Then I went into the Cathedral just before 10am and found David and Edward, and we sat in a pew together.<span> </span>The service appeared to start with something that we presumed was Mattins (?), and then followed the most wonderful procession – with men carrying a large head and shoulders’ statue of St James in a glass case, with quite beautiful unaccompanied antiphonal music lad by a Cantor (an elderly cleric with the most wonderful voice) and a choir responding from the galleries around the Cathedral.<span> </span>Then interspersed with that, and as part of the procession, were a group of musicians blowing trumpets, French Horns and all manner of instruments as a sort of triumphal interlude.<span> </span>The only thing that we all missed was the use of the giant thurible with incense – which takes half a dozen men to swing from one side of the Cathedral to the other – but which was apparently being repaired.<span> </span>We had so looked forward to that – seemingly so appropriate for Pentecost when we remember that on the first Pentecost tongues of fire were seen to descend on all those gathered in the Upper Room as they were filled with the Holy Spirit.<span> </span>When that ceremony drew to a close, we then had the Pentecost Communion service.<span> </span>The three of us went up for Communion – and like most others who did so – found our seats taken by others by the time we got back!!!<span> </span>So now we had to stand for the rest of the service!<span> </span>And all round us were the latest lot of exhausted pilgrims who had just walked in.</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText">I went back to the Suso Hotel to have my lunch in my room, and then spent the afternoon exploring the multitude of tiny alleyways, streets, shops, bazaars, the ancient University and so on.<span> </span>At 7pm we met on the steps outside the cathedral, and went for a drink until all our folk arrived.<span> </span>Then followed another evening together with a final Pilgrim Menu shared together.<span> </span>A wonderful evening and a fitting closure to this part of our journey together.<span> </span>And how much we had packed into that fortnight together.<span> </span>It seemed at times as if we had….well, the only way to explain it was that when we talked about things that had happened 24 hours before, it seemed more like that was at least three or four days ago…..<span> </span>So much was packed into all that walking…. and such wonderful memories…and deep friendships….and above all, a new sense of God’s purposes and involvement in our lives.</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><u>Monday, 28<sup>th</sup> May</u></div><div class="MsoBodyText">10.30 saw us all at the Airport in good time to catch our flight back to Stansted at 11.30am.<span> </span>Two hours later, at 12.30 GMT, we duly landed.<span> </span>Susan was met by Jamie and headed home after farewells with all, as did Richard with his family.<span> </span>The rest of us bought sandwiches and drinks for our drive home, and found our Minibus duly waiting for us.<span> </span>An incident-free drive home saw us all back in Northampton – with tea and cakes supplied at the Vicarage – lots more farewells, and eventual drive home for each and everyone.<span> </span>It was so good to be back.<span> </span>Some of us might not want to do that again – but it was the most wonderful shared experience one could ever wish to have.<span> </span>Many of us achieved physical goals we would never have thought possible.<span> </span>We all ended up many times fitter than when we started.<span> </span>And it definitely left pointers for us down the road for our future and continued pilgrimage.<span> </span>For that, in a nutshell, is what this earthly life is all about – a walk with Christ as we discover more and more of His purposes for us until we finally enter into our eternal destiny with Him.</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><br />
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</div><div align="right" class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">[Aged 71 years and four months at half way stage!]</span></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-71548071341142007372011-07-09T07:54:00.000-07:002011-07-09T07:54:00.628-07:00A foodie tour of Galicia.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG9fSZRPozl8hDLqjguNbwrqrb3zIWbXHTdIolaWl6YnTPD9uRrahpTBkD3LqdYavhkciSG9ejmjJ1_HXJHPt1d4mGSykAyIa9EhNrRKk0YUASEUo2ac-wLGPm87XIE_4-erTCXeLQy8Nh/s1600/rick_stein_spain_dvd_300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG9fSZRPozl8hDLqjguNbwrqrb3zIWbXHTdIolaWl6YnTPD9uRrahpTBkD3LqdYavhkciSG9ejmjJ1_HXJHPt1d4mGSykAyIa9EhNrRKk0YUASEUo2ac-wLGPm87XIE_4-erTCXeLQy8Nh/s320/rick_stein_spain_dvd_300.jpg" width="244" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">This coming thursday 14 July at 8pm Rick Stein is starting his next travel and food series. This time he is in Spain and the program on Thursday is in Galicia. Same formula as before, one which you can trace back to that great production team; Keith Floyd / David Pritchard. The formula is rather old, but it is good to see that the old buffers are still at it. This time Rick tours around in an old camper. I wonder if he nicked it from the Cornish surfers that are so plentiful along his favorite beaches. Anyway expect some interesting takes on traditional Galician cooking, and a few </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">shots of places pilgrims know well.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">By the way the video can be ordered at a discount from BBC.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Does that mean that they don't have many hopes for getting</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">their money back?</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-92201303466636199922011-07-09T03:19:00.001-07:002011-07-09T03:19:04.326-07:00<ins style="border: medium none; display: inline-table; height: 60px; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; position: relative; visibility: visible; width: 468px;"><ins id="aswift_0_anchor" style="border: medium none; display: block; height: 60px; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; position: relative; visibility: visible; width: 468px;"></ins></ins> <br />
<h3><b><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=1277736070464651748&postID=4502845111012069056" name="Let go"></a>A pilgrim will ‘let oneself go’</b></h3>The pilgrim’s <b>mindset</b> is established prior to departure. While packing bags and checking lists, the pilgrim will be mindful of the need to be open to God’s presence throughout the pilgrimage.<br />
The pilgrim will purposefully <b>leave behind</b> family and business concerns. To quote Catholic theologian Fr Virgil Elizondo, “It is crucial to ‘let oneself go’ in order to be disposed to the action of God during the pilgrimage”.<br />
A Jewish writer, Rabbi Lawrence A. Hoffman, offers a four-part <b>formula</b> for visiting a holy site in his book <i>Israel:</i> <i>A Spiritual Travel Guide</i> (Jewish Lights Publishing):<br />
<b>1.</b> Beforehand, <b>anticipate</b> what you are going to see by reading about it.<br />
<b>2.</b> As you get there, <b>approach</b> the site with all the expectation you can muster, as if it is the only spot on earth that matters. <br />
<div class="imgFrame"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/seetheholyland/4524016579"><img alt="The happiest pilgrims are the most relaxed (Seetheholyland.net)" class="flickr small" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4041/4524016579_cd71bbf83a_m.jpg" title="The happiest pilgrims are the most relaxed (Seetheholyland.net)" /></a><br />
<span class="imgCaption">The happiest pilgrims are the most relaxed (Seetheholyland.net)</span></div><b>3.</b> When you arrive, <b>acknowledge</b> its sacred presence, taking some time to be alone with the site, yourself and God.<br />
<b>4.</b> After you leave, record your <b>afterthought</b> about what you experienced.<br />
In the words of the Rev. Peter J. Miano, founder of the Society for Biblical Studies, “Tourists pass through <b>places</b>, but pilgrims let places pass through them, allowing their hearts to be changed”.<br />
<h3><b><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=1277736070464651748&postID=4502845111012069056" name="Open mind"></a>A pilgrim will have an open mind</b></h3>The happiest pilgrims are the most <b>relaxed</b>. They don’t expect everything to go smoothly. They don’t get stressed over delays, itinerary changes or bad weather. They tolerate different people, customs and foods with an open mind.<br />
The tourist may be hasty and impatient, mentally checking off sights on a to-do list. The pilgrim will be <b>patient</b> and considerate, remembering that the guide and tour leader are concerned for the welfare of the entire group. <br />
<div class="imgFrame"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/seetheholyland/4524644548"><img alt="A pilgrim is not inhibited by ostentatious ornamentation (Seetheholyland.net)" class="flickr small" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/4524644548_ab570571ae_m.jpg" title="A pilgrim is not inhibited by ostentatious ornamentation (Seetheholyland.net)" /></a><br />
<span class="imgCaption">A pilgrim is not inhibited by ostentatious ornamentation (Seetheholyland.net)</span></div>The pilgrim will not be disconcerted to find that a treasured site is nothing like the picture in his or her mind. The pilgrim will not be inhibited by the ostentatious ornamentation of some holy places, but will focus on the <b>meaning</b> of the place.<br />
The pilgrim will try not to be <b>distracted</b> when personal reflections are interrupted by another group’s singing, a tour guide’s commentary or tourists chatting.<br />
<h3><b><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=1277736070464651748&postID=4502845111012069056" name="Not alone"></a>A pilgrim does not travel alone </b></h3>Whether in a group or not, the pilgrim does not travel alone. The pilgrim is open to encounters with others that build relationships. The tourist may find companionship, but the pilgrim experiences <b>community</b>. <br />
<div class="imgFrame"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/seetheholyland/4524016477"><img alt="A pilgrim does not travel alone (© Tom Callinan / Seetheholyland.net)" class="flickr small" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4017/4524016477_d3c09db7cc_m.jpg" title="A pilgrim does not travel alone (© Tom Callinan / Seetheholyland.net)" /></a><br />
<span class="imgCaption">A pilgrim does not travel alone (© Tom Callinan / Seetheholyland.net)</span></div>The pilgrim prays for the success of the pilgrimage and for other members of the group. He or she makes an effort to accept other people’s different spiritualities and others’ need for quiet times.<br />
Pilgrims are open to <b>sharing</b> their personal faith stories (though tactfully in sensitive Middle East situations) and to appreciating the faith of others.<br />
The tourist sees religious buildings as objects of historical or architectural interest. The pilgrim sees them as shrines of a <b>faith</b> that lives on today.<br />
<div class="imgFrame"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/seetheholyland/4524018019"><img alt="Christians in Jericho celebrate Christmas in their parish church (© Custodia Terrae Sanctae)" class="flickr small" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4001/4524018019_9c0a6262c3_m.jpg" title="Christians in Jericho celebrate Christmas in their parish church (© Custodia Terrae Sanctae)" /></a><br />
<span class="imgCaption">Christians in Jericho celebrate Christmas in their parish church (© Custodia Terrae Sanctae)</span></div>The Christian pilgrim in the Holy Land is aware that the very <a href="http://www.seetheholyland.net/the-holy-lands-christians/"><b>first Christians</b></a> were simple villagers scattered around modern-day Israel, Palestine, and Jordan. Descendants of these first Christians live in the same villages, still practising the Christian faith. These Arab Christians are called the “Living Stones” of the Holy Land. Joining them in discussion and worship is an act of <b>solidarity</b> for today’s pilgrim.<br />
<h3><b><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=1277736070464651748&postID=4502845111012069056" name="Respect country"></a>A pilgrim respects the host country</b></h3>The pilgrim <b>treads lightly</b> on sacred ground and on the planet. The tourist may unknowingly trample on holy ground or intrude noisily into sacred stillness. The pilgrim is sensitive and respectful.<br />
The pilgrim does not waste water or electricity, conscious that these are precious <b>resources</b> in the Holy Land. The pilgrim disposes of rubbish appropriately, no matter how much litter lies around.<br />
The pilgrim respects the host country and tries to learn about its <b>culture</b> — not just as a spectator at an evening “cultural performance”. The pilgrim seeks to learn standard greetings in the local language.<br />
The pilgrim learns <b>tolerance</b> towards persistent traders, accepting that they are just trying to make a living. The pilgrim accepts the presence of beggars and the ubiquitous expectation of tips, realising that pay rates are low.<br />
The pilgrim may even ponder an 11th-century preacher’s injunction to European pilgrims: “The pilgrim may bring with him no <b>money</b> at all, except perhaps to distribute it to the poor on the road . . . . the pilgrim who dies on the road with money in his pocket is permanently excluded from the kingdom of heaven.”Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-84033308160862457422011-07-09T01:58:00.000-07:002011-07-09T01:58:29.865-07:00Saturday BluesToday I have something for you that I love. Well, the whole broadcast<br />
is not just this quote. It is from American Public Broadcasting. The<br />
show is called "A Prairie Home Companion". The exact quote is a song:-<br />
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/%3Cobject%20id=%22flashObj%22%20width=%22486%22%20height=%22412%22%20classid=%22clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000%22%20codebase=%22http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=9,0,47,0%22%3E%3Cparam%20name=%22movie%22%20value=%22http://c.brightcove.com/services/viewer/federated_f9?isVid=1%22%20/%3E%3Cparam%20name=%22bgcolor%22%20value=%22#FFFFFF%22%20/%3E%3Cparam%20name=%22flashVars%22%20value=%22videoId=1035724380001&playerID=55300488001&playerKey=AQ%7E%7E,AAAADLwIGZk%7E,c7TfWO3MmuAc9-QnpeuM470sl5gb1R6v&domain=embed&dynamicStreaming=true%22%20/%3E%3Cparam%20name=%22base%22%20value=%22http://admin.brightcove.com%22%20/%3E%3Cparam%20name=%22seamlesstabbing%22%20value=%22false%22%20/%3E%3Cparam%20name=%22allowFullScreen%22%20value=%22true%22%20/%3E%3Cparam%20name=%22swLiveConnect%22%20value=%22true%22%20/%3E%3Cparam%20name=%22allowScriptAccess%22%20value=%22always%22%20/%3E%3Cembed%20src=%22http://c.brightcove.com/services/viewer/federated_f9?isVid=1%22%20bgcolor=%22#FFFFFF%22%20flashVars=%22videoId=1035724380001&playerID=55300488001&playerKey=AQ%7E%7E,AAAADLwIGZk%7E,c7TfWO3MmuAc9-QnpeuM470sl5gb1R6v&domain=embed&dynamicStreaming=true%22%20base=%22http://admin.brightcove.com%22%20name=%22flashObj%22%20width=%22486%22%20height=%22412%22%20seamlesstabbing=%22false%22%20type=%22application/x-shockwave-flash%22%20allowFullScreen=%22true%22%20swLiveConnect=%22true%22%20allowScriptAccess=%22always%22%20pluginspage=%22http://www.macromedia.com/shockwave/download/index.cgi?P1_Prod_Version=ShockwaveFlash%22%3E%3C/embed%3E%3C/object%3E"> Amazing Grace</a>. I owe this presentation of this well known hymn to<br />
the above show. It also has a verse that I have not heard before.<br />
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As to the show you can find it here<a href="http://prairiehome.publicradio.org/"> http://prairiehome.publicradio.org/</a>.<br />
I just love the mix of old time broadcasting. It is like something straight<br />
out of the golden age of American Variety broadcasting.<br />
I enjoy it because it is entertaining in a gentle, wholesome way.<br />
Underneath, it seems to me there is a strong Christian, but not revivalist,<br />
river that is encouraging. I hope you enjoy.<br />
More on this blog in an hour or two.<br />
<br />
Oh, by the way. I have posted three pictures that fit an earlier story,<br />
scroll down to see Frank Burns on his<br />
bike at Finesterre.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-56234541128845574452011-07-08T09:41:00.000-07:002011-07-08T09:41:39.106-07:00Stop thief, Oldest pilgrim guide nicked in broad daylight.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqo2iXyjxipAsUEUZXFTlGhMt2EeobYnjTBHrSGN1p-o5hs5giaHcF1Bv-QL-l11bfyt_J0Xi1g-5fZlSc0ckMUi0bWXETklpYgZjifq1BjxbvicaagWMD0Gw-FWYbDYu9GjLg-8dwyb9u/s1600/codex-calixtinus-sntiago-compostela.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqo2iXyjxipAsUEUZXFTlGhMt2EeobYnjTBHrSGN1p-o5hs5giaHcF1Bv-QL-l11bfyt_J0Xi1g-5fZlSc0ckMUi0bWXETklpYgZjifq1BjxbvicaagWMD0Gw-FWYbDYu9GjLg-8dwyb9u/s320/codex-calixtinus-sntiago-compostela.jpg" width="232" /></a></div><div style="color: black;"><a href=""> <style>
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</style> <div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 24pt;">Codex Calixtinus stolen from Santiago de Compostela Cathedral</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">July 7, 2011 </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">THE Codex Calixtinus, a priceless 12th century illuminated manuscript, has vanished from the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. It could become one of the most important robberies of Spanish historical and artistic heritage.</span></b><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;"></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">The disappearance of the codex, which was kept in a safe at the cathedral, was discovered on Tuesday afternoon, although it is believed the theft took place last week.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">The cathedral’s dean, Jose Maria Diaz, said he called police after carrying out a “very detailed search” with the archivist for the illuminated manuscript, which contains a collection of texts including sermons, homilies to Saint James, Spain’s patron saint, and practical travel advice to pilgrims.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">The dean said there was no sign of a break-in and only three people had access to the safe – himself and two archivists.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">In recent years, security measures had been improved to protect the codex. An alarm and fire-prevention system was installed, as well as five security cameras.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">As well as a major source of historical information, the codex is considered one of the first guidebooks to the Way of St James pilgrimage, and includes practical advice for pilgrims, descriptions of the route and of the local customs, and a set of polyphonic musical pieces.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">The 225 page book, thought to date from around 1150, was only brought out on special occasions such as Pope Benedict XVI’s visit last November or during a recent meeting with Spanish Culture Ministry officials.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">It is not the first Codex Calixtinus, but it is the best conserved one.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">Experts are worried about the state of the historical document. A change in light and humidity conditions, or inadequate handling might alter the colour-rich illustrations and cause the pages to come loose.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10pt;">The cathedral’s dean said the manuscript was not insured. In 1990 an insurance company demanded one billion pesetas, the equivalent of six million euros, to insure the document, he added.</span></div></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-86530772854170266572011-07-08T06:50:00.000-07:002011-07-08T06:50:33.451-07:00A little competition<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjezdUjsDr7W78W9szSzzY0CwZHPEJ_8G-TUAfGaLfllmqOkA77kG8OBd4C1f-tVkd5FNq062fW789S3qH7E0dGn3CXs_seRGtA31fn7cgtBYvKw-IAHyCLWosQB3V2wB3VrBO9j4s20J2q/s1600/new+%252CInward+902.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjezdUjsDr7W78W9szSzzY0CwZHPEJ_8G-TUAfGaLfllmqOkA77kG8OBd4C1f-tVkd5FNq062fW789S3qH7E0dGn3CXs_seRGtA31fn7cgtBYvKw-IAHyCLWosQB3V2wB3VrBO9j4s20J2q/s320/new+%252CInward+902.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>Where is this? Post your answer as a message. Come on you do know. Here's another clue....<br />
Saturday weddingsUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-54675971539821024702011-07-08T02:01:00.000-07:002011-07-08T03:21:41.607-07:00Pilgrim food and feasting<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIN2PqWfcZUoOAMrlGrb_8Emxf2HgLQsCqxEVIO8uZU2gZfMCRq8O2qHkKoyzzug572bBlp5qsOTu4O81cyxJzVyl_J61fJO_dpHI8K0g5fx7-g4Ntz-epKEkMhfFBzhhG_XkBhNgsGASZ/s1600/Screen+shot+2011-07-08+at+09.44.00.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIN2PqWfcZUoOAMrlGrb_8Emxf2HgLQsCqxEVIO8uZU2gZfMCRq8O2qHkKoyzzug572bBlp5qsOTu4O81cyxJzVyl_J61fJO_dpHI8K0g5fx7-g4Ntz-epKEkMhfFBzhhG_XkBhNgsGASZ/s320/Screen+shot+2011-07-08+at+09.44.00.png" width="320" /></a></div>The picture above is by Stanley Spencer. It depicts the last Supper. Spencer<br />
was an English painter of the mid twentieth century. He lived in Cookham on<br />
the Thames. He was very active in painting Christian themes, although in his<br />
lifetime he was better known for landscapes. He had a view of life that was open<br />
to Christ in his daily life. Thus is saw nothing odd is portraying Jesus in the<br />
streets of Cookham as a modern citizen. His last painting for example,<br />
was called Jesus preaches at Henley Regatta. Enough of the art history.<br />
<br />
I have posted this picture because in a way it reminds me of a meal in an<br />
Albergue. Especially the feet, open to the air to rest. That in turn reminds me that the<br />
Feast of St James will soon be with us. We gather on 30 July at Noon for Mass<br />
and the feast. This will be followed by a showing of the new film 'The Way'.<br />
<span style="color: red;">Please let me know if you are coming</span><span style="color: red;">.</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho6GJ3pyv8HUupM5lE9jbPoq0MEOBWWRGbEoudnJwDdw6Z_EAAcBjv6C2k_Dh5TYyszF8dM7QdQVZ66DcVMFCmbFVc6i1PbZeQx05fk8q_Z08gjprzpTgxJJPJfvOELUoA_mSBQgmBINve/s1600/Screen+shot+2011-07-08+at+11.18.55.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho6GJ3pyv8HUupM5lE9jbPoq0MEOBWWRGbEoudnJwDdw6Z_EAAcBjv6C2k_Dh5TYyszF8dM7QdQVZ66DcVMFCmbFVc6i1PbZeQx05fk8q_Z08gjprzpTgxJJPJfvOELUoA_mSBQgmBINve/s400/Screen+shot+2011-07-08+at+11.18.55.png" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1277736070464651748.post-52061564707516122792011-07-06T01:47:00.000-07:002011-07-06T01:47:07.363-07:00Good Eating<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPJg4N7HTxPKVqdkeXxKmk6UZFJniP-0Cvv6OANDKr2EuNkTV5DOJoqJRSQdASnRcVKOTjelEP3CxPf1XXckUFtpM5b1JlE-bLoh1tGjLF9CJNrO39khx7HWiraITTkWnEZqsX5V2P09OG/s1600/piperrada.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPJg4N7HTxPKVqdkeXxKmk6UZFJniP-0Cvv6OANDKr2EuNkTV5DOJoqJRSQdASnRcVKOTjelEP3CxPf1XXckUFtpM5b1JlE-bLoh1tGjLF9CJNrO39khx7HWiraITTkWnEZqsX5V2P09OG/s1600/piperrada.jpg" /></a></div>Here is a great dish, another egg based dish that is not omelet.<br />
<br />
<div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;">Piperade</span></div><div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">Ingredients.</span></span></div><div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">4 Red Peppers ( You can us other colours or a mix if you wish )</span></span></div><div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">2 large Tomatoes: skinned ( place in boiling water for a moment and skin will split) </span></span></div><div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">6 Eggs</span></span></div><div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">6 tbs finely chopped Onion</span></span></div><div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">1/4tps. Smoked paprika. </span></span></div><div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">Black Pepper to taste</span></span></div><div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">Salt to taste.</span></span></div><div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">Wash the peppers and dry them carefully. Place on a tray or baking dish and roast</span></span></div><div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">Roast tomatoes, sliced thickly on the same tray </span></span></div><div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">Turn serveral times</span></span></div><div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">Open the peppers and discard the seeds and pull off the skin.</span></span></div><div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">Do this while they are hot and the skin will come away easily.</span></span></div><div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">Cut into long strips</span></span></div><div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">Saute onions with paprika for a few moments in a deep frying pan until translucent and season-low heat</span></span></div><div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">Beat eggs and add peppers to the frying pan, followed by eggs.</span></span></div><div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">Cook until runny scrambled egg consistancy</span></span></div><div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">Serve; Enjoy. </span></span></div><div style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">This recipe is from the Basque region. You may have eaten it on the Camino Francis. </span> </span></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0