PEREGRINATIONS
WINTER EDITION 2011
If you have anything I can add to the next issue contact:
Del Lindon adele.lindon@yahoo.co.uk
Web sites:
Face Book Site : Peterborough Pilgrims.
www.pilgrims-to-santiago.com
PILGRIMAGES PLANNED FOR 2012
May & October 2012 : Porto (Portugal) to Santiago (Spain) 150 miles starting in Portugal and walking along the Atlantic coast then inland to Spain to Santiago. Why not come along.
July 2012. The Youth Pilgrimage. Two pilgrimages offered for 16 to 19 yrs and also 19 yrs and over these will be led by Joe Cameron the Youth coordinator. To be confirmed
SPANISH LESSONS.
Mercedes Finning has offered to give Spanish Lessons again Times and venue to be decided. Contact Mercedes on
for further details.
Mercedes.finning001:btinternet.com
It is with regret to inform you that Cheryl Goddard is stepping down as Treasurer. We would like to take this opportunity of thanking Cheryl for all she has done. If anyone feels they are able to take on this position contact Ian.
01604 761104.
John Knight's new book “Who holds the reins” this is now available from John contact 01280 706258
PILGRIM GATHERING AT ST MARY’S ON THE 28TH JANUARY 2012.AT 12.00 pm.
Eucharist Service followed by shared meal and also
TALK TO BE GIVEN BY BISHOP LYNSEY URWIN of Walsingham.
The film “The Way” is now available on Amazon cost £8.99
Trailer on Youtube
Walking the Camino
Ian Stairs (Pilgrim September 2011)
Starting from Father Ian’s we left for the airport at 4.30am. We landed in Spain at 11.30am after a bus ride and a short walk we got to our first Albergue.
Sunday our first all day walk. It is very warm but good walking conditions underfoot. My concern is getting through the third day, Monday and Tuesday are very hard days, glad to get finished for the day. After a shower and some time to reflect we find a place to eat and then rest up. The days are going so fast, the walking is hard but the sights are so wonderful. We are now a few hours from Santiago, we will be there in the morning. With the pilgrimage almost over and Santiago so close its nice to reflect back over the last few days. Sharing a common table together was so good and meeting other pilgrims was very interesting. One day as we climbed a steep slope through a village, feeling the weight of my back-pack I thought of Jesus with the heavy cross on his shoulders, stumbling over the stony path. Reaching the end of the days walk one day to be told there was no beds (no room at the inn) on a lighter note one can only marvel at the wonder of God’s creation and the kindness of local people.
This morning we begin to walk our last few miles getting quite excited as we get closer. We are now in Santiago. I feel so good to have made it all the way but sad that the pilgrimage is almost over. We have been to mass and took communion with hundreds of other pilgrims.
I would like to say a big thank you to my wife Julie and Joseph for their company over the last two weeks, and also to Father Ian for all his help and advice throughout the pilgrimage. Thank you also to Johnny Walker for his kindness and hospitality.
CHRISTMAS TREE FESTIVAL AT ST. ANDREW’S CHURCH, GREAT BILLING.
Why not come and see the trees including one reflecting pilgrimage.
1st to 4th December 2011-10-31 11 am-8pm Thurs 1st and 2nd Dec. 11am – 7pm Sat 3rd Dec and Sun 4th 12 – 4 pm
Camino de Santiago. The Way of St. James.
Roger Lazenby 24th August 2011
The Meseta is 113 miles of flat agricultural wilderness. From horizon to horizon the only sight is of golden wheat stubble, no bird song, little or no shade from the heat of the sun.
I had chosen the Meseta as part of my 180 mile solo pilgrimage, knowing there would be no distractions from recharging my spiritual batteries. For the first few days of a pilgrimage your head is full of every day thoughts, travel, where shall I eat, sleep.
I asked the Lord if he could give me a helping hand, within moments a cloud has covered the sun and the temperature drops, a slight wind pushes me from behind, it is then I realize that I’m not walking alone.
From John Walkers Blogspot.
See www.johnniewalker.com/
Monday, 31 October 2011
News , numbers and gossip from Santiago
Hola
I reported recently that pilgrim numbers this year had broken records yet again. As October draws to a close that trend continues although the number of arrivals is much reduced. By the end of this month another 16,000 pilgrims arrived. This makes the total for 2011 so far 177,939. For a full analysis see the bottom of this post. It isn't surprising then that Santiago is celebrating these increased numbers and preparing for the future.
Exhibition: 20 years on the Way
Xacabeo is the government funded Galician organisation responsible for developing and promoting the Camino. They have mounted an exhibition to celebrate their success over the last 20 years. I visited it yesterday. It is very well done, full of sound and light shows, pictures and models of the albergues that have been built and a litany of statistics. For example did you know that in the 20 years since Xacabeo has been operating numbers on the camino have grown by a factor of 32?
The exhibition also contains some replicas of artifacts and a copy of the Codex Calixtinus in Gallego which was produced in recent times. I held a copy of the tome in my hands. That is probably the nearest I will ever get to the real medieval book which was of course stolen from the cathedral archives recently. Conspiracy theories still abound on that one with newspaper pundits feeding off local gossip publishing theories that the priceless book was stolen by cathedral insiders in an effort to embarrass and therefore depose the unpopular Dean of the Cathedral. Frankly I think this is simply hogwash and I subscribe to the theory that the book was stolen to order by professional art thieves. In 2003 I was talking to the Duke of Baccleuch (as one does!) just after a painting by Leonardo da Vinci was stolen from his home, Drumlanrig Castle. He said, "Yes it is a shock but the authorities say these things are so rare it is hard to for them to be sold and usually they are found...eventually" Four years later the Leonardo was returned. Let's hope the same is true of the Codex.
See www.johnniewalker.com/
Monday, 31 October 2011
News , numbers and gossip from Santiago
Hola
I reported recently that pilgrim numbers this year had broken records yet again. As October draws to a close that trend continues although the number of arrivals is much reduced. By the end of this month another 16,000 pilgrims arrived. This makes the total for 2011 so far 177,939. For a full analysis see the bottom of this post. It isn't surprising then that Santiago is celebrating these increased numbers and preparing for the future.
Exhibition: 20 years on the Way
Xacabeo is the government funded Galician organisation responsible for developing and promoting the Camino. They have mounted an exhibition to celebrate their success over the last 20 years. I visited it yesterday. It is very well done, full of sound and light shows, pictures and models of the albergues that have been built and a litany of statistics. For example did you know that in the 20 years since Xacabeo has been operating numbers on the camino have grown by a factor of 32?
The exhibition also contains some replicas of artifacts and a copy of the Codex Calixtinus in Gallego which was produced in recent times. I held a copy of the tome in my hands. That is probably the nearest I will ever get to the real medieval book which was of course stolen from the cathedral archives recently. Conspiracy theories still abound on that one with newspaper pundits feeding off local gossip publishing theories that the priceless book was stolen by cathedral insiders in an effort to embarrass and therefore depose the unpopular Dean of the Cathedral. Frankly I think this is simply hogwash and I subscribe to the theory that the book was stolen to order by professional art thieves. In 2003 I was talking to the Duke of Baccleuch (as one does!) just after a painting by Leonardo da Vinci was stolen from his home, Drumlanrig Castle. He said, "Yes it is a shock but the authorities say these things are so rare it is hard to for them to be sold and usually they are found...eventually" Four years later the Leonardo was returned. Let's hope the same is true of the Codex.
The exhibition: Xacabeo, 20 years on the Way is open daily until 23 December 2011 in the exhibition rooms, San Martin Pinario. Entrance Free.
New airport for Santiago
For the last few days it has been pouring with rain in Santiago. All day. "Raining cats and dogs" is a phrase in English which is universally known in Santiago. I wonder why? But during one of the better days I decided to go out to see the new airport at Lavacolla and walk back home on the Camino Frances. Although I'd seen reports of the new airport in the newspapers I was still very impressed by the sheer scale and elegance of the new facilities. This is not Heathrow or La Guardia but it is a far cry from the airport of 1932:
The new reception and check-in areas are vaulted, huge airy spaces. There are modern restaurants and coffee stalls with giant televisions. There is a new baggage reclaim designed not only to cope with the existing 2 million passengers per year but also for significant growth in passenger numbers who will be attracted by the routes served by the airport. I thought pilgrims planning trips perhaps also involving a holiday at the end of a hard walked Camino might be interested to see the current list of destinations: ALICANTE
BARCELONA BILBAO FRANKFURT /HAHN FUERTEVENTURA
New airport for Santiago
For the last few days it has been pouring with rain in Santiago. All day. "Raining cats and dogs" is a phrase in English which is universally known in Santiago. I wonder why? But during one of the better days I decided to go out to see the new airport at Lavacolla and walk back home on the Camino Frances. Although I'd seen reports of the new airport in the newspapers I was still very impressed by the sheer scale and elegance of the new facilities. This is not Heathrow or La Guardia but it is a far cry from the airport of 1932:
The new reception and check-in areas are vaulted, huge airy spaces. There are modern restaurants and coffee stalls with giant televisions. There is a new baggage reclaim designed not only to cope with the existing 2 million passengers per year but also for significant growth in passenger numbers who will be attracted by the routes served by the airport. I thought pilgrims planning trips perhaps also involving a holiday at the end of a hard walked Camino might be interested to see the current list of destinations: ALICANTE
BARCELONA BILBAO FRANKFURT /HAHN FUERTEVENTURA
GINEBRA
GRAN CANARIA
LANZAROTE
LONDON
MADRID
MALAGA
MILAN
PALMA DE MALLORCA
PARIS /CHARLES DE GAULLE
REUS
SEVILLA
TENERIFE
V ALENCIA
ZURICH
Aeropuerto Santiago de Compostela: Lavacolla S/N 15820 Santiago de Compostela Telephone 902 404 704 http://www.aena-aeropuertos.es/csee/Satellite/Aeropuerto-Santiago/es/
New Museum of Pilgrimage in Santiago
Back in 1951 a very modest Museum of Pilgrimages was founded in the city. It was established in what is known as the "Gothic House" parts of which date to the 14th Century (Left). However the Museum didn't become permanent until 1996 and of course since then visitor numbers have grown like topsy, maybe because entrance is free.
At the moment the exhibitions are divided between pilgrimage generally in the world and the Camino to Santiago in particular. I found the exploration of the phenomenon of pilgrimage in many cultures across all continents very interesting and I think this is something on which they will expand. And expand they will, because the Museum is moving to bigger, better and more central premises. Some of you may remember this building in the Plaza Platerias - just beside the Pilgrims' Office:
GRAN CANARIA
LANZAROTE
LONDON
MADRID
MALAGA
MILAN
PALMA DE MALLORCA
PARIS /CHARLES DE GAULLE
REUS
SEVILLA
TENERIFE
V ALENCIA
ZURICH
Aeropuerto Santiago de Compostela: Lavacolla S/N 15820 Santiago de Compostela Telephone 902 404 704 http://www.aena-aeropuertos.es/csee/Satellite/Aeropuerto-Santiago/es/
New Museum of Pilgrimage in Santiago
Back in 1951 a very modest Museum of Pilgrimages was founded in the city. It was established in what is known as the "Gothic House" parts of which date to the 14th Century (Left). However the Museum didn't become permanent until 1996 and of course since then visitor numbers have grown like topsy, maybe because entrance is free.
At the moment the exhibitions are divided between pilgrimage generally in the world and the Camino to Santiago in particular. I found the exploration of the phenomenon of pilgrimage in many cultures across all continents very interesting and I think this is something on which they will expand. And expand they will, because the Museum is moving to bigger, better and more central premises. Some of you may remember this building in the Plaza Platerias - just beside the Pilgrims' Office:
This former home of the Banco de Espana has been under major renovation and construction for some time and was due to be open as the new home of them Museum of Pilgrimages in October. However such is the scale of the building work to an historic building there have been inevitable delays. It will however be open soon and will look like this:
For those wishing to visit the current Museum of Pilgrimage:
Rua de San Miguel, 4. 15704 Santiago de Compostela http://www.mdperegrinacions.com/ Entrance free
All the numbers for the year so far:
In the month of October almost 16,000 pilgrims arrived. The total number in the year so far is analysed as follows:
For those wishing to visit the current Museum of Pilgrimage:
Rua de San Miguel, 4. 15704 Santiago de Compostela http://www.mdperegrinacions.com/ Entrance free
All the numbers for the year so far:
In the month of October almost 16,000 pilgrims arrived. The total number in the year so far is analysed as follows:
The number of pilgrims who arrived between 1 January 2011 and 31 October 2011 is 177.939
Countries
Spain Germany Italia Portugal France United States Ireland
UK
Holand
Canadá
Brasil
Austria
Poland
Denmark Belgium
Corea
Australia Sweden
México Switzerland República Checa Norway
Japón Hungría Argentina Finlandia Eslovenia Eslovaquia South Africa V enezuela Colombia Russia
New Zealand Rumania Chile Ecuador
Gender
Spain Germany Italia Portugal France United States Ireland
UK
Holand
Canadá
Brasil
Austria
Poland
Denmark Belgium
Corea
Australia Sweden
México Switzerland República Checa Norway
Japón Hungría Argentina Finlandia Eslovenia Eslovaquia South Africa V enezuela Colombia Russia
New Zealand Rumania Chile Ecuador
Gender
Number of pilgrims
94847 (53,30%) 16333 (9,18%) 11991 (6,74%)
8446 (4,75%) 7980 (4,48%) 3623 (2,04%) 2609 (1,47%) 2297 (1,29%) 2284 (1,28%) 2240 (1,26%) 1872 (1,05%) 1789 (1,01%) 1779 (1,00%) 1590 (0,89%) 1575 (0,89%) 1536 (0,86%) 1347 (0,76%) 1206 (0,68%) 1155 (0,65%) 1148 (0,65%)
941 (0,53%) 909 (0,51%) 802 (0,45%) 744 (0,42%) 668 (0,38%) 636 (0,36%) 559 (0,31%) 545 (0,31%) 502 (0,28%) 415 (0,23%) 409 (0,23%) 236 (0,13%) 224 (0,13%) 198 (0,11%) 174 (0,10%) 170 (0,10%)
94847 (53,30%) 16333 (9,18%) 11991 (6,74%)
8446 (4,75%) 7980 (4,48%) 3623 (2,04%) 2609 (1,47%) 2297 (1,29%) 2284 (1,28%) 2240 (1,26%) 1872 (1,05%) 1789 (1,01%) 1779 (1,00%) 1590 (0,89%) 1575 (0,89%) 1536 (0,86%) 1347 (0,76%) 1206 (0,68%) 1155 (0,65%) 1148 (0,65%)
941 (0,53%) 909 (0,51%) 802 (0,45%) 744 (0,42%) 668 (0,38%) 636 (0,36%) 559 (0,31%) 545 (0,31%) 502 (0,28%) 415 (0,23%) 409 (0,23%) 236 (0,13%) 224 (0,13%) 198 (0,11%) 174 (0,10%) 170 (0,10%)
Male 102548 (57,63%) Female 75391 (42,37%)
Method of travel
On foot Bicycle Horse Wheelchair
148461 (83,43%) 28960 (16,28%) 485 (0,27%) 33 (0,02%)
Motivation for pilgrimage
Religious or spiritual 89063 (50,05%)
Religious or spiritual 89063 (50,05%)
Religious Not religious
Starting point
Sarria
S. Jean P. Port León
Cebreiro Roncesvalles Ponferrada
Tui
Oporto
Astorga
Pamplona
Burgos
Le Puy
Oviedo - C.P. Vilafranca Valença do Minho Resto Portugal Irún
Ferrol
Sevilla
Ourense
Francia Triacastela
Resto C. León Oviedo
Resto Asturias Lugo - C.P. Ribadeo
Samos
Santander Logroño
Somport
Starting point
Sarria
S. Jean P. Port León
Cebreiro Roncesvalles Ponferrada
Tui
Oporto
Astorga
Pamplona
Burgos
Le Puy
Oviedo - C.P. Vilafranca Valença do Minho Resto Portugal Irún
Ferrol
Sevilla
Ourense
Francia Triacastela
Resto C. León Oviedo
Resto Asturias Lugo - C.P. Ribadeo
Samos
Santander Logroño
Somport
77900 (43,78%) 10976 (6,17%)
38230 (21,48%) 18580 (10,44%) 10477 (5,89%) 9844 (5,53%) 9138 (5,14%) 7857 (4,42%) 7489 (4,21%) 6479 (3,64%) 5837 (3,28%) 4098 (2,30%) 3830 (2,15%) 3184 (1,79%) 2870 (1,61%) 2847 (1,60%) 2728 (1,53%) 2696 (1,52%) 2469 (1,39%) 2381 (1,34%) 2229 (1,25%) 2141 (1,20%) 2053 (1,15%) 1786 (1,00%) 1406 (0,79%) 1369 (0,77%) 1203 (0,68%) 1166 (0,66%) 1094 (0,61%) 1072 (0,60%) 926 (0,52%) 921 (0,52%) 854 (0,48%)
38230 (21,48%) 18580 (10,44%) 10477 (5,89%) 9844 (5,53%) 9138 (5,14%) 7857 (4,42%) 7489 (4,21%) 6479 (3,64%) 5837 (3,28%) 4098 (2,30%) 3830 (2,15%) 3184 (1,79%) 2870 (1,61%) 2847 (1,60%) 2728 (1,53%) 2696 (1,52%) 2469 (1,39%) 2381 (1,34%) 2229 (1,25%) 2141 (1,20%) 2053 (1,15%) 1786 (1,00%) 1406 (0,79%) 1369 (0,77%) 1203 (0,68%) 1166 (0,66%) 1094 (0,61%) 1072 (0,60%) 926 (0,52%) 921 (0,52%) 854 (0,48%)
Bilbao
Ponte de Lima
Alemania
Holanda
Salamanca
Vilalba
Lisboa
Gijón
A vilés
Resto País Vasco
Sahagún
Zamora
Resto Asturias - C.P. Madrid - C.F.
Bélgica
Puebla de Sanabria
Suiza
Jaca
Resto Cantabria
Frómista
San Sebastián
Vega de Valcarce
Carrión de los Condes Braga
Neda
Baamonde
Gudiña
Lourdes
Cataluña
Sto. Domingo de la Calzada Madrid
Puente la Reina
Granja de Moreruela Rabanal del Camino Porriño
Mondoñedo
Fonsagrada - C.P.
Mérida
Hospital de Orbigo
Vigo
V ezelay
Arles
Lourenzá
Zaragoza
Navarra
Muxia
Hendaya
Ponte de Lima
Alemania
Holanda
Salamanca
Vilalba
Lisboa
Gijón
A vilés
Resto País Vasco
Sahagún
Zamora
Resto Asturias - C.P. Madrid - C.F.
Bélgica
Puebla de Sanabria
Suiza
Jaca
Resto Cantabria
Frómista
San Sebastián
Vega de Valcarce
Carrión de los Condes Braga
Neda
Baamonde
Gudiña
Lourdes
Cataluña
Sto. Domingo de la Calzada Madrid
Puente la Reina
Granja de Moreruela Rabanal del Camino Porriño
Mondoñedo
Fonsagrada - C.P.
Mérida
Hospital de Orbigo
Vigo
V ezelay
Arles
Lourenzá
Zaragoza
Navarra
Muxia
Hendaya
834 (0,47%) 788 (0,44%) 716 (0,40%) 680 (0,38%) 644 (0,36%) 641 (0,36%) 628 (0,35%) 614 (0,35%) 492 (0,28%) 455 (0,26%) 448 (0,25%) 439 (0,25%) 393 (0,22%) 382 (0,21%) 337 (0,19%) 329 (0,18%) 303 (0,17%) 294 (0,17%) 276 (0,16%) 265 (0,15%) 263 (0,15%) 257 (0,14%) 254 (0,14%) 253 (0,14%) 238 (0,13%) 237 (0,13%) 229 (0,13%) 217 (0,12%) 202 (0,11%) 202 (0,11%) 197 (0,11%) 191 (0,11%) 185 (0,10%) 182 (0,10%) 179 (0,10%) 173 (0,10%) 169 (0,09%) 158 (0,09%) 152 (0,09%) 150 (0,08%) 149 (0,08%) 144 (0,08%) 139 (0,08%) 133 (0,07%) 129 (0,07%) 125 (0,07%) 121 (0,07%)
Com. Valenciana Cáceres
Resto C. León - V.P. Abadin
Laza
Estella
R.Pais Vasco Chaves-Portugal
V alencia
Barcelona
Austria
Resto Europa
Grandas de Salime - C.P. V erín
Montserrat
Resto Andalucia Molinaseca
Xunqueira de Ambia Resto de Extremadura Francia
Grandas de Salime Finisterra
Tineo - C.P.
Canfranc
Rábade
Tineo
Cast. la Mancha Fonsagrada
Granada
Italia
Com. Valenciana Castilla La Mancha
La Rioja
París
Cadavo
Allariz
Povoa de Varzim Castilla la Mancha Huelva
Malaga
V alladolid
Nájera
Benavente
San Sebastian
Córdoba
Cataluña
La Mesa
Resto C. León - V.P. Abadin
Laza
Estella
R.Pais Vasco Chaves-Portugal
V alencia
Barcelona
Austria
Resto Europa
Grandas de Salime - C.P. V erín
Montserrat
Resto Andalucia Molinaseca
Xunqueira de Ambia Resto de Extremadura Francia
Grandas de Salime Finisterra
Tineo - C.P.
Canfranc
Rábade
Tineo
Cast. la Mancha Fonsagrada
Granada
Italia
Com. Valenciana Castilla La Mancha
La Rioja
París
Cadavo
Allariz
Povoa de Varzim Castilla la Mancha Huelva
Malaga
V alladolid
Nájera
Benavente
San Sebastian
Córdoba
Cataluña
La Mesa
121 (0,07%) 116 (0,07%) 115 (0,06%) 110 (0,06%) 105 (0,06%) 103 (0,06%) 102 (0,06%) 102 (0,06%) 101 (0,06%) 101 (0,06%)
96 (0,05%) 95 (0,05%) 93 (0,05%) 92 (0,05%) 88 (0,05%) 84 (0,05%) 82 (0,05%) 76 (0,04%) 75 (0,04%) 75 (0,04%) 68 (0,04%) 65 (0,04%) 65 (0,04%) 61 (0,03%) 60 (0,03%) 59 (0,03%) 58 (0,03%) 58 (0,03%) 58 (0,03%) 58 (0,03%) 57 (0,03%) 54 (0,03%) 53 (0,03%) 49 (0,03%) 48 (0,03%) 48 (0,03%) 47 (0,03%) 46 (0,03%) 39 (0,02%) 39 (0,02%) 36 (0,02%) 35 (0,02%) 34 (0,02%) 34 (0,02%) 32 (0,02%) 32 (0,02%) 32 (0,02%)
96 (0,05%) 95 (0,05%) 93 (0,05%) 92 (0,05%) 88 (0,05%) 84 (0,05%) 82 (0,05%) 76 (0,04%) 75 (0,04%) 75 (0,04%) 68 (0,04%) 65 (0,04%) 65 (0,04%) 61 (0,03%) 60 (0,03%) 59 (0,03%) 58 (0,03%) 58 (0,03%) 58 (0,03%) 58 (0,03%) 57 (0,03%) 54 (0,03%) 53 (0,03%) 49 (0,03%) 48 (0,03%) 48 (0,03%) 47 (0,03%) 46 (0,03%) 39 (0,02%) 39 (0,02%) 36 (0,02%) 35 (0,02%) 34 (0,02%) 34 (0,02%) 32 (0,02%) 32 (0,02%) 32 (0,02%)
Roma Salas Badajoz Castrojeriz Murcia
A Guarda
Resto Galicia Fonfría
V egadeo Ponferrada. C.Inv. Reino Unido Republica Checa Polonia
La Rioja
Grado
La Bañeza
Leyre
San Juan de Ortega Baiona
Dinamarca
A Rúa Luxemburgo Sobrado
Finlandia
Inglaterra
Vilabade
Viveiro
Irlanda
Hungría
Monforte de Lemos Covelo
Gonzar
Ortigueira
Paradela
V alcarlos Jerusalem
Andorra
Egipto
Reino Unido Artieda
Betanzos
Borres
Cea
El Escamplero Guntín
Mella
Peñaseita
A Guarda
Resto Galicia Fonfría
V egadeo Ponferrada. C.Inv. Reino Unido Republica Checa Polonia
La Rioja
Grado
La Bañeza
Leyre
San Juan de Ortega Baiona
Dinamarca
A Rúa Luxemburgo Sobrado
Finlandia
Inglaterra
Vilabade
Viveiro
Irlanda
Hungría
Monforte de Lemos Covelo
Gonzar
Ortigueira
Paradela
V alcarlos Jerusalem
Andorra
Egipto
Reino Unido Artieda
Betanzos
Borres
Cea
El Escamplero Guntín
Mella
Peñaseita
32 (0,02%) 30 (0,02%) 27 (0,02%) 26 (0,01%) 23 (0,01%) 23 (0,01%) 22 (0,01%) 19 (0,01%) 19 (0,01%) 18 (0,01%) 16 (0,01%) 13 (0,01%) 13 (0,01%) 13 (0,01%) 12 (0,01%) 12 (0,01%) 11 (0,01%) 11 (0,01%) 11 (0,01%) 10 (0,01%) 10 (0,01%)
8 (0,00%) 6 (0,00%) 5 (0,00%) 5 (0,00%) 5 (0,00%) 4 (0,00%) 3 (0,00%) 3 (0,00%) 3 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%)
8 (0,00%) 6 (0,00%) 5 (0,00%) 5 (0,00%) 5 (0,00%) 4 (0,00%) 3 (0,00%) 3 (0,00%) 3 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 2 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%) 1 (0,00%)
Petín 1 (0,00%) Pontedeume 1 (0,00%) Silleda 1 (0,00%)
Employment status
Employment status
Employed Students Technicians Retired Professionals Teachers
Civil Servants Manual workers Housewives Unemployed Artists Directors Priests
Farm Workers Religious Sailors Sportsment Oikoten
Ages of pilgrims
30 - 60 < 30
> 60
Routes followed
Civil Servants Manual workers Housewives Unemployed Artists Directors Priests
Farm Workers Religious Sailors Sportsment Oikoten
Ages of pilgrims
30 - 60 < 30
> 60
Routes followed
43412 (24,40%) 31126 (17,49%) 24508 (13,77%) 19964 (11,22%)
17695 (9,94%) 13469 (7,57%) 9122 (5,13%) 5899 (3,32%) 3891 (2,19%) 3884 (2,18%) 1476 (0,83%) 1278 (0,72%) 804 (0,45%) 553 (0,31%) 483 (0,27%) 215 (0,12%) 108 (0,06%) 52 (0,03%)
102256 (57,47%) 50704 (28,50%) 24979 (14,04%)
17695 (9,94%) 13469 (7,57%) 9122 (5,13%) 5899 (3,32%) 3891 (2,19%) 3884 (2,18%) 1476 (0,83%) 1278 (0,72%) 804 (0,45%) 553 (0,31%) 483 (0,27%) 215 (0,12%) 108 (0,06%) 52 (0,03%)
102256 (57,47%) 50704 (28,50%) 24979 (14,04%)
Frances-Camino de 128869 (72,42%)
Portugues-Camino Norte-Camino de Via de la Plata Primitivo-Camino Ingles-Camino Otros caminos Muxia-Finisterre
21473 (12,07%) 11819 (6,64%) 7698 (4,33%) 4889 (2,75%) 2625 (1,48%) 376 (0,21%) 190 (0,11%)
Posted by Johnnie Walker at 11:52 2 comments Labels: Santiago, Santiago Diary
Tuesday, 25 October 2011
No more tears in heaven
A lot of people wouldn't associate the words "heroism" or "nobility" with pilgrims. And yet I wonder if maybe all pilgrims who walk to Santiago are heroes? I don't know. All I know is that heroism is sometimes more obvious than others. On my own pilgrimages and in my time in the Pilgrims' Office I've met people who have walked with disabilities or had to overcome huge challenges. Recently a man arrived carrying his rucksack who had walked with one leg and a crutch from France. Other pilgrims are obviously ill. Sometimes we find out how ill they are. For some it is the last pilgrimage.
Often pilgrims arrive and the struggle they have made to reach the Tomb of the Apostle is etched on their faces. This can be true of pilgrims walking the 100 kms from Sarria as well as much longer distances. Maybe inside everyone's rucksack there is pain and suffering of some kind or another. But as in life some people are exceptional. I would like to tell you about two pilgrims. No pictures, no pack drill, and, as they say, some of the details have been changed.
I looked up from my desk after I had pressed the gadget which flashes the desk number on the screen above the door. A middle aged couple approached. Quiet and demure, neatly dressed in hiking clothes. I guessed they were Spanish. They stood there almost at attention whilst I introduced myself and asked for their credenciales. As they handed them over I sensed their seriousness. For many people receiving the final stamp and the Compostela is a solemn moment. I opened out their credenciales on the desk in front of me and it was clear that theirs had been a long journey. I noticed the first stamp and asked for confirmation, "Where did you start from?" "Arles, in France," was the reply. Now it is not unusual for us to receive pilgrims who started in Arles. It is however highly unusual for two Spanish people living in Spain to travel this distance from outside their own country. I said that I'd heard the route was beautiful and I asked how they had found walking in France. We chatted as pilgrims do about walking, the route, where they slept and so on. I explained I was applying the final stamp of the Cathedral on their credenciales and asked them to confirm their names which would go on their Compostela. The atmosphere changed to one of greater seriousness. "Sir," they said, " we have walked before and we would like a dedication on our Compostelas." "Of course," I replied, "In what name?" I have learned that it is best not to ask anything about the dedication unless the information is volunteered. Sometimes the memory is too painful. As I wrote I kept my head down but the woman kept talking and the story emerged. "The name is that of our daughter. She died at the age of 10, 10 years ago. This is our 10th Compostela dedicated to her memory. Every year we have walked and every year we have needed to walk farther. This year we have walked farther than ever before. Now it is time to stop."
As I handed over their Compostelas we grasped each others hands. In that moment I saw the nobility of all pilgrims who walk with grief and pain yet have the courage to keep going because they walk with a purpose. Pilgrims also have a destination and this dignified couple had now reached theirs. A tear rolled down the mother's face which she brushed away saying quietly, almost to herself, "no more tears" as if saying it might make it so.
From John Walker
And some news from Rebekah on the Meseta
See moratinoslife.blogspot.com/
Sunday, 6 November 2011
A Star is Born (Again)
From the upstairs bathroom the pilgrim roared for the second time this evening. Flu, maybe, or bad food. He is not the first vomitous traveler to share that awful serenade with the household. The toilet flushed, and a few moments later he shimmered down the stairs and into the living room where I sat.
No more tears in heaven
A lot of people wouldn't associate the words "heroism" or "nobility" with pilgrims. And yet I wonder if maybe all pilgrims who walk to Santiago are heroes? I don't know. All I know is that heroism is sometimes more obvious than others. On my own pilgrimages and in my time in the Pilgrims' Office I've met people who have walked with disabilities or had to overcome huge challenges. Recently a man arrived carrying his rucksack who had walked with one leg and a crutch from France. Other pilgrims are obviously ill. Sometimes we find out how ill they are. For some it is the last pilgrimage.
Often pilgrims arrive and the struggle they have made to reach the Tomb of the Apostle is etched on their faces. This can be true of pilgrims walking the 100 kms from Sarria as well as much longer distances. Maybe inside everyone's rucksack there is pain and suffering of some kind or another. But as in life some people are exceptional. I would like to tell you about two pilgrims. No pictures, no pack drill, and, as they say, some of the details have been changed.
I looked up from my desk after I had pressed the gadget which flashes the desk number on the screen above the door. A middle aged couple approached. Quiet and demure, neatly dressed in hiking clothes. I guessed they were Spanish. They stood there almost at attention whilst I introduced myself and asked for their credenciales. As they handed them over I sensed their seriousness. For many people receiving the final stamp and the Compostela is a solemn moment. I opened out their credenciales on the desk in front of me and it was clear that theirs had been a long journey. I noticed the first stamp and asked for confirmation, "Where did you start from?" "Arles, in France," was the reply. Now it is not unusual for us to receive pilgrims who started in Arles. It is however highly unusual for two Spanish people living in Spain to travel this distance from outside their own country. I said that I'd heard the route was beautiful and I asked how they had found walking in France. We chatted as pilgrims do about walking, the route, where they slept and so on. I explained I was applying the final stamp of the Cathedral on their credenciales and asked them to confirm their names which would go on their Compostela. The atmosphere changed to one of greater seriousness. "Sir," they said, " we have walked before and we would like a dedication on our Compostelas." "Of course," I replied, "In what name?" I have learned that it is best not to ask anything about the dedication unless the information is volunteered. Sometimes the memory is too painful. As I wrote I kept my head down but the woman kept talking and the story emerged. "The name is that of our daughter. She died at the age of 10, 10 years ago. This is our 10th Compostela dedicated to her memory. Every year we have walked and every year we have needed to walk farther. This year we have walked farther than ever before. Now it is time to stop."
As I handed over their Compostelas we grasped each others hands. In that moment I saw the nobility of all pilgrims who walk with grief and pain yet have the courage to keep going because they walk with a purpose. Pilgrims also have a destination and this dignified couple had now reached theirs. A tear rolled down the mother's face which she brushed away saying quietly, almost to herself, "no more tears" as if saying it might make it so.
From John Walker
And some news from Rebekah on the Meseta
See moratinoslife.blogspot.com/
Sunday, 6 November 2011
A Star is Born (Again)
From the upstairs bathroom the pilgrim roared for the second time this evening. Flu, maybe, or bad food. He is not the first vomitous traveler to share that awful serenade with the household. The toilet flushed, and a few moments later he shimmered down the stairs and into the living room where I sat.
"Rebekah," he said, pale-‐faced. "Do you believe in God?"
Not exactly what I expected to hear just then. But hey. "Yeah, I do," I told him. "You guys been talking up there?"
He smiled a little. I gave him a big glass of water. I told him to sit down, but he didn ́t want to.
"Something is happening to me today. Something amazing," he said. "I ́ve been walking for so long, and had such pain, and today I was walking alone so I just shouted and raged, like a madman. I am just so ready to give up. I tell myself if I get to this house and nobody is home, then that ́s it, it ́s a sign that my Camino is over. I am on the plane tomorrow and going home. But here I am. I feel like I am home."
"You ́re welcome," I told him. "This is what we do here. You came to a good place." (His arrival was a reminder to me that my troubles could be a lot worse, and that pilgrims are the priority here.)
"I wonder if God sent me here. I was so glad to find you home, because I don ́t really want to go back home yet. I was up there lying in the bed, hearing the rain, and I just gave up anyway. I just told God, "I give up. You take this. I can ́t handle my life any more." And then I got up and want to the bathroom and threw up like I never threw up before. And now I feel like, wow. Like something amazing is happening. I don ́t have the flu. I am not sick, really. I think I just got rid of all the, well, shmutz I ́ve been carrying in my mind forever."
It was a Billy Graham moment. Anyone raised in Evangelical Land will recognize it.
"Wow," I told him. "Do you believe in God? In the Christian God, in Jesus?" "I do now," he said.
"Well, then. What you just did means, in Christian terms, you are a new creation. You just made a brand new start, spiritually. Your past is gone. You are born again."
"It feels like maybe you are right," he said. "I ́m Protestant. I heard about this before, but it didn ́t really make sense..." We sat for a minute.
"What about the vomiting part?" he asked.
"That is unique," I told him. "I never heard of projectile conversion before. It might be your body just mirroring the cleanup that ́s going on in your spirit. But vomiting -‐-‐ I think that ́s maybe supposed to happen when your demons are exorcised. And that ́s one service we don ́t usually provide."
Not exactly what I expected to hear just then. But hey. "Yeah, I do," I told him. "You guys been talking up there?"
He smiled a little. I gave him a big glass of water. I told him to sit down, but he didn ́t want to.
"Something is happening to me today. Something amazing," he said. "I ́ve been walking for so long, and had such pain, and today I was walking alone so I just shouted and raged, like a madman. I am just so ready to give up. I tell myself if I get to this house and nobody is home, then that ́s it, it ́s a sign that my Camino is over. I am on the plane tomorrow and going home. But here I am. I feel like I am home."
"You ́re welcome," I told him. "This is what we do here. You came to a good place." (His arrival was a reminder to me that my troubles could be a lot worse, and that pilgrims are the priority here.)
"I wonder if God sent me here. I was so glad to find you home, because I don ́t really want to go back home yet. I was up there lying in the bed, hearing the rain, and I just gave up anyway. I just told God, "I give up. You take this. I can ́t handle my life any more." And then I got up and want to the bathroom and threw up like I never threw up before. And now I feel like, wow. Like something amazing is happening. I don ́t have the flu. I am not sick, really. I think I just got rid of all the, well, shmutz I ́ve been carrying in my mind forever."
It was a Billy Graham moment. Anyone raised in Evangelical Land will recognize it.
"Wow," I told him. "Do you believe in God? In the Christian God, in Jesus?" "I do now," he said.
"Well, then. What you just did means, in Christian terms, you are a new creation. You just made a brand new start, spiritually. Your past is gone. You are born again."
"It feels like maybe you are right," he said. "I ́m Protestant. I heard about this before, but it didn ́t really make sense..." We sat for a minute.
"What about the vomiting part?" he asked.
"That is unique," I told him. "I never heard of projectile conversion before. It might be your body just mirroring the cleanup that ́s going on in your spirit. But vomiting -‐-‐ I think that ́s maybe supposed to happen when your demons are exorcised. And that ́s one service we don ́t usually provide."
"So I got a two-‐for-‐one bargain," he said, smiling. He smiled in all sincerity. We had a cup of tea. He then went off to sleep some more.
Moratinos isn ́t any more spiritual than any other place, but wonderful things happen here.
We keep a mop and a bucket handy.
(This pilgrim is a pop star in Germany, a real character. I would post his photo but I do not want to violate his privacy, and New Creations are sometimes fragile. Besides, I still have not found the cable for my camera.)
News from Clive Evans.
Moratinos isn ́t any more spiritual than any other place, but wonderful things happen here.
We keep a mop and a bucket handy.
(This pilgrim is a pop star in Germany, a real character. I would post his photo but I do not want to violate his privacy, and New Creations are sometimes fragile. Besides, I still have not found the cable for my camera.)
News from Clive Evans.
Bom caminho!
‘Camino’ with an ‘h’? You’re in Portugal but still on track for Santiago [pic 1]!
For some years Deb, my wife, and I have holidayed in rural Portugal, just south of the city of Coimbra, midway between Porto and Lisbon. It’s lovely – and as a bonus, we came across the caminho de Santiago just a few kilometres from the village where we stay.
On the web, you can find a fair amount about the caminho in Portugal, but only starting from Porto, quite a bit further north. (Peterborough Pilgrim, Robert Hill, and others have walked it, I believe.) But south of Porto, I struggled to find much information. So here’s a bit for anyone interested. See map for the area where we walked [pic 2].
The caminho portugues runs, I believe, all the way from the Algarve, Faro, through Lisbon, Porto and into Spain. Deb and I, however, were only pretend peregrinos this year! We walked sections both ways or else tackled a section and then circled back to our (shhhh!) car. But in all, we walked a fair distance in the area south of Coimbra: from Netos, just north of Ansião, to Alvorge (where we met an Italian peregrino on whom I successfully tried out some Latin), through Rabaçal where there’s a refugio in the ‘town’ hall, and onto Conimbriga. Then we skirted Condeixa-a-Nova and headed on towards Coimbra. Apart from a couple of cyclists, this walker was the only peregrino we met, but there was evidence of plenty of others in the earth! That said, this caminho was quiet. Maybe it’s busier in the spring.
The route is just as well marked as the various caminos in Spain and, in the sections we followed, covers similar terrain – flat stretches and some ascents and descents. The surfaces were varied: some tarmac; much farm track and some lovely and very narrow footpaths. Rural Portugal is lovely and walking through it lovelier still!
We’ve also walked other short sections of the caminho by accident – in Coimbra and also in Porto: I say, by accident, because we have chanced upon some yellow arrows there! (As an added bonus, there also blue arrows! These are helpfully in completely the opposite direction from Santiago and they lead you to Fatima, which is not far away to the south. So if you meet any blue, you know you’re going wrong for Santiago!)
The countryside is lovely [pic 3] and the temperatures not too bad even for walking midday in July, thanks to the nearby mitigating influence of the Atlantic. The Beiras, the name given to this area of Portugal, are neither bone- dry Spain nor wet and squidgy Galicia! You are, of course, well further south than this and the flora reflects this: plenty of yummy fruit to pick along the way! The figs were especially excellent.
There is plenty of interest to see: Rabaçal is home to a famous cheese. Conimbriga is the site of a world-class Roman city, many remains and a museum with one especially splendid villa to visit [pic4]. Coimbra has been described as ‘the Oxford of Portugal’ – a lovely ancient university city [pic 5] with loads to see. And Porto: you could spend days there. The caminho tracks across a famous bridge, built by Eiffel of the tower fame [pic 6]!
So, in conclusion, o caminho portuges: plenty to commend it. Plenty to see, lovely countryside and people. Adequate provision of refugios but probably a smattering of Portuguese would be needed. And don’t try out your Spanish in Portugal: not a good idea!
And finally, on a personal note, advanced notice of a book, another book, yes, about the Camino. I walked the Vίa de la Plata, from Sevilia upto Finisterre in 2009 and I’m about to get a book of this journey published. I’ll keep you posted.
Clive Evans
12th September 2011
The Camino from Porto is one that many of our members have used. It is now the preferred route for 'first time' pilgrimages. So come and join us next May -Ed.
For some years Deb, my wife, and I have holidayed in rural Portugal, just south of the city of Coimbra, midway between Porto and Lisbon. It’s lovely – and as a bonus, we came across the caminho de Santiago just a few kilometres from the village where we stay.
On the web, you can find a fair amount about the caminho in Portugal, but only starting from Porto, quite a bit further north. (Peterborough Pilgrim, Robert Hill, and others have walked it, I believe.) But south of Porto, I struggled to find much information. So here’s a bit for anyone interested. See map for the area where we walked [pic 2].
The caminho portugues runs, I believe, all the way from the Algarve, Faro, through Lisbon, Porto and into Spain. Deb and I, however, were only pretend peregrinos this year! We walked sections both ways or else tackled a section and then circled back to our (shhhh!) car. But in all, we walked a fair distance in the area south of Coimbra: from Netos, just north of Ansião, to Alvorge (where we met an Italian peregrino on whom I successfully tried out some Latin), through Rabaçal where there’s a refugio in the ‘town’ hall, and onto Conimbriga. Then we skirted Condeixa-a-Nova and headed on towards Coimbra. Apart from a couple of cyclists, this walker was the only peregrino we met, but there was evidence of plenty of others in the earth! That said, this caminho was quiet. Maybe it’s busier in the spring.
The route is just as well marked as the various caminos in Spain and, in the sections we followed, covers similar terrain – flat stretches and some ascents and descents. The surfaces were varied: some tarmac; much farm track and some lovely and very narrow footpaths. Rural Portugal is lovely and walking through it lovelier still!
We’ve also walked other short sections of the caminho by accident – in Coimbra and also in Porto: I say, by accident, because we have chanced upon some yellow arrows there! (As an added bonus, there also blue arrows! These are helpfully in completely the opposite direction from Santiago and they lead you to Fatima, which is not far away to the south. So if you meet any blue, you know you’re going wrong for Santiago!)
The countryside is lovely [pic 3] and the temperatures not too bad even for walking midday in July, thanks to the nearby mitigating influence of the Atlantic. The Beiras, the name given to this area of Portugal, are neither bone- dry Spain nor wet and squidgy Galicia! You are, of course, well further south than this and the flora reflects this: plenty of yummy fruit to pick along the way! The figs were especially excellent.
There is plenty of interest to see: Rabaçal is home to a famous cheese. Conimbriga is the site of a world-class Roman city, many remains and a museum with one especially splendid villa to visit [pic4]. Coimbra has been described as ‘the Oxford of Portugal’ – a lovely ancient university city [pic 5] with loads to see. And Porto: you could spend days there. The caminho tracks across a famous bridge, built by Eiffel of the tower fame [pic 6]!
So, in conclusion, o caminho portuges: plenty to commend it. Plenty to see, lovely countryside and people. Adequate provision of refugios but probably a smattering of Portuguese would be needed. And don’t try out your Spanish in Portugal: not a good idea!
And finally, on a personal note, advanced notice of a book, another book, yes, about the Camino. I walked the Vίa de la Plata, from Sevilia upto Finisterre in 2009 and I’m about to get a book of this journey published. I’ll keep you posted.
Clive Evans
12th September 2011
The Camino from Porto is one that many of our members have used. It is now the preferred route for 'first time' pilgrimages. So come and join us next May -Ed.
